ER in England

Liverpool, January 20th, 1923

Today, we are to start our voyage across the Atlantic. I cannot appreciate this fact because I had a bad foretaste of sailing when we crossed the North Sea. But I must not get ahead of myself.

The last day in Hamburg again was hurried and worried, at least in the morning. After breakfast, we again went to the Steamship Company where we waited a long time. Then we were sent to a U.S. doctor for more examinations and signatures. We walked fast, not taking the time to look around or talk or ask questions. All went well at the doctor’s office.

Now I accompanied my aunt on some last-minute shopping, returning to the hotel for a second breakfast shortly before noon. Our next stop was the customs office, from there all emigrants were taken to large waiting rooms near the harbor. Here again tickets, visas and other papers were checked and rechecked, and then we were directed to enter covered wagon-type buses drawn by horses. Many passengers who were standing had to stoop. Since I am very tall, standing was almost impossible for me. I certainly appreciated another passenger’s thoughtfulness for giving me his seat.

Arriving at the pier, we entered the boat, which was small, old and very smelly. Our tickets were third class, but this boat had first class and steerage only. The steerage section of the ship was not only crowded, acting both as sleeping and living-eating space, but also had an almost unbearable odor of fish and tar. The Neufelds and Mrs. K. with her small daughter decided to pay extra and use the first class accommodations. My two brothers and I traveled steerage with the privilege of using the first-class lounge and deck during the day.

It would have been an enjoyable voyage had it not been for seasickness. As we slowly left Hamburg harbor, just as it was getting dark, we stood for hours at the rail, taking in the picturesque view of the retreating city and watching the lights on either shore finally disappear from our view.

As I came down to my sleeping quarters, supper was almost over. It consisted of platters heaped with thick slices of white and raisin bread, plates with ham, cheese, butter and marmalade and tea. This food was set on a long wooden table that was built against the center partition, dividing the men’s and women’s quarters. As this same table served for dressing babies and general utility, it was of questionable cleanliness. Thanks to the kind steward, I was served fresh food in spite of being tardy. It was a very satisfactory meal, though one missed the comfort of eating at a properly set table.

The narrow metal bunks were supplied with a straw mattress and a dark wool blanket.  Since I had my own pillow and another blanket, I was comfortable enough. My first sleep was suddenly interrupted by the loud groaning and moaning of one of the women, the first to be a victim of seasickness. Others started to laugh, the noise awakened the babies who joined the pandemonium. The sight, smell and racket are enough to make anyone sick.

Meanwhile, we were on the stormy North Sea. The small boat rose and fell and we passengers mercilessly felt ourselves almost thrown out of our bunks or had a sensation of being crushed. There was no chance to sleep. I stayed on my back with my eyes closed, miserable and hoping to survive.

Meanwhile the night had passed, breakfast was brought in but hardly touched by anyone. The steward suggested that I rise and go out into the fresh air, but any attempts to get on my feet were useless. About 10 o’clock, Mrs. K. came down, assisted me with my coat and shoes and with faltering steps I managed to go up on deck and sit on a bench, closing my eyes and leaning my head back. Thus I sat until sunset, occasionally glancing up and taking in the breathtaking view of the blue foamy stormy sea and blue sky with white clouds above it. In the midst, a wide shimmering reflection of the sun and here and there a sailboat or steamer on the horizon. In the foreground, the graceful seagulls circling the boat or bobbing on the waves.

After sundown, Uncle Will called me to his wife’s bedside because she was also suffering from seasickness. But all I could do for her was keep her company. At bedtime, I returned to my own bunk. Luckily the second night was much better, the water was smooth and everybody seemed to be sleeping. We arrived at Grimsby, England, about midnight, but did not disembark until daylight. Awaking refreshed, I dressed early and made up with breakfast what I missed the day before.

About 8 o’clock, we were guided to a railway station and boarded a train that took us to Liverpool. The railway cars were spacious, clean and comfortable. It was a wonderful feeling to be on solid ground again and to be able to enjoy the scenery through the wide windows.

Since I had read stories about England, I expected it to be well populated but I was surprised that during the whole seven hour trip we always saw fields and orchards, towns, villages, factories, canals, mines and an ever-changing picture of life and industry.

Since we left Hamburg, the steamship company has been in charge of us. We have nothing to do with our luggage, food and transportation. Everything is very efficiently taken care of. Every so often, we are asked to show our tickets and other papers.

At the time we reached Liverpool, we were getting quite hungry, but a bus awaited us at the station and we were taken without delay to the Hotel of the White Star Line and shortly were called to dinner. The three-course meal was enjoyed by all.  A little later, after taking a good look at our rooms, in which the beds were arranged bunk-fashion above each other, some of us took a leisurely walk in the neighborhood. The section of the city where the hotel was located looked untidy and drab. The same could be said of the people we saw. Uncle Will and my brothers took a bus ride through the central part of Liverpool and received a much more favorable impression

 I have spent my leisure time resting or doing handwork. This morning, after a big breakfast of oatmeal, buns, coffee, sausages and potatoes, we were once again checked by medical staff, taken by bus to the pier and after the usual inspection of tickets and papers, boarded.

Our third class accommodations are very satisfactory. The ship, Regina, weighs 16,000 tons and is new and up to date with spacious cabins and clean beds. The days may be spent in the comfortable ladies lounge and the meals are served in a large dining room.

The ship is still at the pier but the clang of the anchors and the hum of the engine can be heard and soon we expect to be at sea. How much we regret that the pleasure and adventure of the ocean trip will likely be spoiled by the almost unbearable seasickness. We hope for the best, knowing that the same God who has been with us this far will not leave us and give us strength to survive.