Embedded Files
The following is from Herman Rempel's diary. It took him almost two years to get himself (mostly alone) from his home town in the Southern Russia (now Ukraine) to his relatives in Reedley, California. It read like a travelogue but underneath it spoke of his endurance and resilience.
My Trip From Russia to Freedom in America
Diary of Herman G. Rempel
Gnadenfeld
We started our journey on Monday, Dec. 11, 1922. Our travel group consisted of 14 people. We had loaded our belongings into a freight car at the Halbstadt railroad station on Thursday, Dec. 7, but since no trains were running we had to wait until Monday for our departure. When we arrived at Feodorovka, we established ourselves as well as possible in the freight car. We bought some lumber and built bunks for sleeping. Since we had a stove, we were able to keep warm and to cook hot meals. Our car was attached to a slow freight train. We left Feodorovka on Tuesday and arrived in Charkov on Wednesday morning. Our uncle William Neufeld was able to clear the passports for Evangeline, Frank and Art, but not for Dick (Dietrich) and me because of our age (military conscriptable age). However, we took a chance and left Charkov at 5 pm on Thursday and did not arrive in Moscow until Wednesday Dec. 20th. There, we met our uncle and aunt Neufeld, who had remained in Charkov and then overtook us by passenger train. It is taking a great deal of time to obtain all the visas and since the Christmas holidays are approaching, we will not be able to get our passports until Wednesday, the 27th of December. Uncle Neufeld has already made reservations on the Lithuanian Diplomatic train, which we will be taking on Wednesday.
Moscow, Sunday, Dec, 24, 1922
This is Christmas Eve, Since this is Sunday and all government offices are closed, Frank, Art and I took a sightseeing walk through the city. We walked all around the Kremlin and observed it from all sides. We were not permitted to go inside because we did not have the proper passes. We observed the Moscow river and many churches. We visited the old church Vasilya Preobrajonovo and also the largest church in Moscow, Chram Christa Svatitels. Since it was Sunday morning, we attended the services, which were very impressive. The interior of the church is very large and very beautiful. The walls are covered with paintings of saints and the decorations are gold plated. The resonance is particularly good. Every tone reverberates a thousandfold. Since today is Christmas Eve, we had cake and pfeffermuese for a farewell supper, because Dick and I are leaving on the Moscow-Mineralnye Vody train for the Caucasus this evening. When we left Moscow, our whole traveling group except uncle and aunt Neufeld accompanied us to the station to see us off.
Bachnut, Monday, Dec. 25, 1922.
Today, Christmas is celebrated around the world. We are traveling on an express train from Moscow to Mineralnye Vody in a 2nd class compartment (since we could not get 3rd class tickets). Our train travels 35 to 40 miles per hour and stops only in large cities. We left Moscow yesterday at 7 o’clock in the evening and arrived in Bachmut at 9:30 this evening. The car next to ours is a diner. We treated ourselves to a dinner today consisting of four courses. The diner is well furnished, had large windows with curtains, the floors were covered with rugs and the tables with white clean tablecloths. Our travel partners got off in Bachmut and two new ones will go only as far as Rostov. We have electric lights and spring mattresses for sleeping in our compartment.
Mineralnye Vody, Tuesday Dec. 26, 1922
We arrived here safely at 9:45 last night. The trip from Moscow required 50 hours and the distance is about 1100 miles. We crossed the bridge over the Don river into the Caucasus at dawn this morning, but since it was not daylight yet, we saw very little of the river. Our two travel companions got off at Rostov, so that we had our own compartment to ourselves all day. It was very comfortable and enjoyable. I wrote a card to the Loewens (Greta and Jasch) and mailed it. The train from Petrograd will come through here tomorrow night at 10 o’clock. We have another 24 hours to wait here.
Mineralnye Vody, Wednesday Dec. 27, 1922
We are now sitting in the train and can catch up on some sleep, which we have missed very much. We have bought 3rd class tickets. The train arrived in Mineralnye at 11 pm instead of 9 pm. We became very tired waiting for it. The Neufelds and group are leaving Moscow at 7 pm this evening.
Derbent, Thursday, Dec. 28, 1922
We arrived at Port Petrovac on the Caspian Sea at noon today and so we crossed the whole Caucasus from West to East. From Port Petrovac, we have been traveling south along the sea.The weather is wonderful, warm with bright sunshine even if it is the end of December. We were to change locomotives here in Derbent, however, since none are available, we will have to wait for a few hours. We will probably not arrive in Baku until tomorrow morning.
Baku, Friday, Dec. 29, 1922 at 2 pm
Before noon today, we were coming into Baku through the naphtha industrial area, one of the richest oil fields not only in Russia, but in the whole world. Most of the naphtha is pumped in Chornij Gorodok, which is a suburb of Baku. From the train window, we could see the oil derricks and the pipes leading to loading and storage areas. One large pipe crosses the whole Caucasus from Baku to Batum and serves the whole area. At 11 o’clock, we pulled out of Baku in the same direction from where we arrived at a railroad station from where the track leads west. We are now traveling through a sandy desert-like area covered with rocks and scraggly bushes. We saw several caravans of up to 40 camels travel on the road along the railroad. We also met a train of heavily-loaded donkeys. We are now traveling in a westerly direction. To the left is the sea and to the right steep mountains with rock slopes. On some of the slopes, you can see settlements and it is interesting how the inhabitants can climb up to them. The whole landscape has an Asiatic oriental character. Particularly interesting is the change in temperature and climate. When we were in Moscow five days ago, we had snow and frost (-10 C), while the temperature here is plus 10 C. The sun is shining and there are no clouds in the blue sky. I estimate that the sun orbits at about the same height as it does in Southern Russia in September.
Gori, Dec. 30, 1922, 11 am
This morning, we came through Tbilisi. We could oversee the whole city from the train. It lies in a valley on the shores of the Kura river. To the south of the city is a steep mountain, the Davidova Gora, with the Davidov church on the slope. On the peak of the mountain is a restaurant, which can be reached by a steep cable car track.
Before we got to Tbilisi, the train first ran through a level valley, then we went into mountains where the track wound around the shores of the Kura river. In some cases, there were high mountains on both sides covered with coniferous trees and bushes. To the north, we could occasionally see the snap-covered ridge of the Caucasian mountains. For a distance we were traveling along a mountain highway, the Vceno Gruzinskaya Doroga, which leads from Tbilisi to Stavropol across the mountains. I also noted the Europe-Indian telegraph line with metal posts running along the railroad, which I had often noticed in the Crimea. It continues through Iran into India. The Kura is a clear, rapidly-flowing river. We have just arrived at the St. Michajlov summit. The brakes are brought into good-working order and two double locomotives with two boilers, two chimneys and two pairs of cylinders attached to the front of the train. The locomotive, which brought us here, is attached to the back of the train to push from behind. We will immediately go through a 2 km long tunnel. Since a large cavity was discovered when the tunnel was built, which made the construction much easier, the grade goes slightly up first and then steeply down, so that there is a branch to Sural and Borjom. We have just passed the tunnel. The time in the dark lasted 8 minutes. While there was bright sunshine outside, it was completely dark in the tunnel. At first, the train went slowly, but when it started downhill, it gained speed. The locomotives blew their whistles and bells were ringing as a signal to the brakeman to apply the brakes. It sounded terrible. The brakeman did a good job with the brakes so that our speed coming out of the tunnel was not too great. It is said that many accidents have occurred here when the brakes were not operated properly. From Suramskij Pereval to Batum, the trip was tremendously beautiful. We went through three tunnels. Between the summit and Batum, we dropped almost 3600 feet in elevation. The track was running along a beautiful mountain stream.
Batum, Sunday, Dec. 31, 1922
Our train arrived here at 10 pm last night. Henry Dirks met us at the station and took us to his home, where we spent the night. Today, we visited the city, the harbor and the park. Palms, cypresses, banana trees, oleander and other tropical plants are all green and the weather is nice and warm and sunny. Since today is Sunday and tomorrow is New Year's day, we cannot work on the acquisition of our passports. We will have to go back to Tbilisi to get our passports there. Peter Janzen will go there in about a week and we will probably go with him.
Batum, Monday, Jan. 1, 1923
Batum is located in a flat valley on a bay of the Black Sea. On the other side it is surrounded by mountains. To the southeast is a high range of mountains covered with snow. Around the city and on the mountain slopes are many villas and gardens. The city has a good harbor and a large park with a lake in it. The streets have beautiful green trees planted along the sides. Today, we went with Henry, Mary and Katherine to the datcha where they had lived before. It is located near the sea and the garden contains various palms, cactuses, bananas, bamboo, lemons, mandarins, oranges, mushmala, tea leaves, figs, cypresses and other coniferous trees. Roses and Alpen violets are in bloom. We cut some fir branches for a Christmas tree and made walking sticks from the bamboo.
Batum, Tuesday, Jan. 2, 1923
I sent a letter to the Neufelds at Grossmist today. Peter Janzen entered our name on the refugee list. He will go to Tbilisi on Monday to submit the list to the authorities. The Markomindel has promised to issue passports to the refugees. Dick and I will probably go with him. Today, we exchanged 10 rubles for 10.80 lyra. We bought some sacks for our bedding. We will sleep in our own quarters tonight.
Wednesday, Jan. 3, 1923
We went to the International harbor this morning. The two largest ships are the English “Sheffield” and the Dutch “Pendrisht”. When I walked up to them to take a closer look, I was asked to produce a pass so that I could walk back. We had beautiful weather today. There was a great deal of fishing done at sea.
Thursday, Jan. 4, 1923
We have always had good warm weather here. The sun shines during the day and the moon at night. Since Venus is now at maximum proximity to the earth, one can observe it during the day with the naked eye. I have also seen it through a telescope. When it is clear, one can see the main Caucasian mountain range including Mount Elbrus from here. Since they are covered with snow they appear to be completely white. This evening, the Mennonite refugees had a meeting. Since Peter Janzeen is leaving, Henry Dirks was chosen to be their representative against all his protests. We have been running all over town. Since we can not further our case here in Batum, we are getting tired waiting. The sea is very quiet and busy with fishermen. Ships enter the harbor practically every day.
Saturday, Jan. 6, 1923
Yesterday, Peter Janzen informed us that the permit to leave Russia could be obtained not only in Tbilisi, but also at the Russian Consulate in Batum. We were afraid to have some difficulties, but everything went quite well. We had to fill out two questionnaires, submit two photographs and each pay 1.5 lyra. We submitted our applications at 10:30 am and received the permits at 1:30 pm. Since this is Christmas Eve, we are all feeling very excited and happy. Christmas is still celebrated here according to the old calendar. We celebrated Christmas with the other old Batum refugees. We also had a real Christmas tree decorated with candles, apples, candy and cookies. The celebration consisted of singing Christmas songs, reading the Christmas story and two inspirational talks. Dick and I together with Mary and Katherina sang songs from “Liederperlen”. The school children sang songs and recited poems. After that presents were passed out. Then we went to the Dirkses and had tea, pfeffernusse, candy and chocolates. We also opened a package from A. Klassens. It contained a small mirror for Dick and a pen for me. We felt very much hope and enjoyed ourselves.
Sunday, Jan. 7, 1923
We are celebrating Christmas today. We had a Christmas service before noon. In the afternoon, we went for a walk to the city and to the harbor. A large ship with many lights pulled into the harbor this evening. Tomorrow, we will take the Rostov express train to Tbilisi. Since the train leaves at 6 am, we will have to get up at 4 am. We are celebrating Christmas and goodbye at the Dirkses tonight.
Monday, January 8, 1023
This morning we were awakened by uncle Dirks at 3 o’clock. After we had our breakfast and packed our belongings we went to the railroad station. We stopped at Peter Janzen who went with us. On the way to the station, we were stopped by the guards. They were going to take us to the command headquarters, however, when we paid them some money, they escorted us to the station. We had to pay 4,500,000 Grusian bons for the tickets. The price was doubled at midnight. We left Batum at 6 am under bright moonlight. The first stretch was along the seashore through beautiful gardens. Then we traveled through corn fields with some log cabins here and there. It is noon now and we have just arrived at St. Rion, where a branch leads to Kutais. Until now, we have gone through a flat country. Only at St. Ruzili our locomotive was exchanged for two others since the railroad begins to wind through the mountains. The next station was Sharaponze. A narrow gauge is taking off from here. This area is beginning to look very interesting. The railroad winds along a rushing mountain river (Rion). Since the track is constantly changing from one side of the river to the other, we cross many large and small bridges. The opposite side is sometimes a steep stone wall covered with ivy. The two smaller locomotives had to use all their power to pull the train up the steep grade. The Suromsky tunnel is about 2,400 feet above sea level. It took us 12 minutes to go through it. On this side of the tunnel, the railroad goes along the bed of the Kura river, but since it is now getting dark, we cannot see very much. It is now 8:45 pm and we should be in Tbilisi in about one and a half hours.
Tbilisi, Wednesday, Jan. 10, 1923
When we arrived here in Tbilisi the night before last, we took a wagon to go to the German Convalescent Home at Kirotchnaja 48, but since they had no place for us we stayed with Jacob Janzen in an empty schoolhouse overnight. Yesterday, we immediately began to work on our papers, but without any success. Our passports were not sufficient and were not accepted by the authorities. More photographs were required, so we had to be photographed again and ordered one dozen each. Today we tried again to apply for the necessary papers, but were not able to do it. We will have to go back to Batum and obtain another passport. A train leaves at 6 pm, but we were not able to obtain any tickets. We will have to wait for the next train, which leaves at 12:30 am. A tiger was recently killed in the vicinity of Tbilisi who had allegedly killed 70 people.
St. Rion, Thursday, Jan. 11, 1923
Dick and I have been sitting in the train all day and will not arrive in Batum until early tomorrow morning. While it took us 14 to 15 hours for this stretch by express train, this slow train requires 30 hours, which is twice as long. Since the windows are broken and since there is no heating, it is cold. This morning, we went through snow-covered landscapes, but it was getting warmer and warmer as we approached Batum. Here in Rion, we had to change cars, since the one we had before went to Kutais. We have made this stretch three times now so that it has become familiar.
Batum, Friday, Jan. 12, 1923
We arrived here at 5 o’clock in the morning. The thermometer at the station showed plus 10 R this morning. Since it is not permitted to walk in the streets at night, we had to wait two hours at the station. I have an idea that the warm weather in Batum is due to a warm current in the Black Sea. The population of Batum is very diversified. Since it is a border town, one can find all kinds of nationalities here. The majority populations are Russians, Jews, Armenians and Turks, with smaller portions of Mutsus, Abckases and Iranians with turbans and Kurds, which lead a gypsy life and spend all winter in tents. The work and burden animals are mountain horses, buffaloes and donkeys, which carry all the goods across the mountains on their backs. The wagons that the mountain people are using are built in such a way that they cannot roll back (by a prop on the underside). When we arrived in town this morning, we went to the Dirkses and had breakfast. At 10 o’clock, we applied for a passport at the consulate but were refused. We then applied at the Militia and were told that we would be called the next day to receive our passports.
Batum, Tuesday, Jan. 16, 1923
This morning, we received our registration cards at the Warcomm. Then we were interrogated at the Militia and a protocol was set up. We had to bring two witnesses, Henry Dirks and Jacob Dirks. We were promised to get the passports the next morning. We want to take the 2 pm train back to Tbilisi tomorrow, if possible.
Samtredia, Thursday, Jan. 18, 1923
Today, Dick and I finally received our passports. We are now sitting on a train that left Batum at 5 pm. There was a long queue of people at the ticket counter, but I still obtained our tickets after the third bell. After that, the ticket window was smashed shut even though there were many people who wanted to leave. Since all the seats in the car were taken, we established ourselves in the heating compartment at the end of the car. We stuffed gunny sacks into the holes in the window and sat on our suitcases. We also bought a candle so that we had some light. Tomorrow is a holiday, so we will not be able to apply for our papers in Tbilisi until Saturday.
Tbilisi, Friday, Jan. 19, 1923
We arrived here at 12 noon. We stopped at the Willemses to prepare our applications. Dick and I are again staying overnight with Jakob Janzen.
Tbilisi, Saturday, Jan. 20, 1923
We made a bit of progress today as far as our papers are concerned. At the advice of the clerk, we changed our application forms so that we now have hope to get a favorable decision. We are now staying at the German Convalescent Home. Here we receive hot water for tea and a warm room, which is the kitchen. Living here in Tbilisi is considerably cheaper than in Batum. While a white loaf of bread costs 30 to 35 bons in Batum, it costs 13 to 15 bons here. Sausage and other food products cost only half as much as in Batum.
Tbilisi, Sunday, Jan. 21, 1923
I sent a letter to America today and wrote to one of the A. Klassens in Halbstadt (now Molochansk). This evening Jacob Janzen, Dick and I attended a Lilliputian Theatre. It was very interesting and entertaining.
Tbilisi, Monday, Jan. 22, 1923
Today is a revolution holiday and offices are closed. The weather is very good. This morning before 10 am, we read a story in a book that the manager of the home had loaned to us. Then we went for a walk and decided to climb the St. David mountain. We crossed the bridge across the Kura river, then walked along the Golowinski Prospect, turned right and walked through many narrow and crooked streets until we reached the St. Davidov church, which is built on the mountainside. The cable car track, which I have mentioned before, can be seen in a small distance from the church. We climbed up the mountain and reached the cable car track in about the middle, where there is a wide viaduct, on which the upcoming and descending cars pass each other. There are steps leading up the mountain on both sides of the track. On the top of the mountain is the cable car station and some other buildings. I estimate the length of the track at about 2000 feet and the rise in elevation at 1000 feet. The angle between the slope of the track and the horizon is about 30 degrees. The view from the top of the mountain was magnificent. The whole city of Tbilisi and surrounding was spread out before us. We could recognize the buildings with which we were familiar. Since the weather was clear, we could see Kazbek to the northeast. The Kura river winds itself through the city that spreads from the northwest to the southeast. There are several bridges across the river. After we were satisfied with the sightseeing, we descended the mountain on a narrow path that had many curves and bends. Then we went to Peter Janzen and together took a streetcar to the sulfur water springs to take a bath. However, since this was a holiday, the place was closed, so we had to postpone it for another time.
Batum, Wednesday, Jan. 24, 1923
Unexpectedly, I had to go back to Batum and now am back on the train back to Tbilisi. The Norkom in Tbilisi yesterday requested certificates that had been taken off the list in the Warkom. Since we were registered in Batum, it was necessary to come back here. We were told at the Tbilisi Warcom that it would be acceptable if only one of us would go. Since Dick had started to have fillings put into his teeth, I left last night by myself on the mail train. I had a place on the third level and was able to sleep all night. I arrived here at 10:30 am, left my baggage at the Dirkses, went to the Warcom and received my papers an hour later. Then I exchanged some money and had lunch with the Dirkses. Katherine came with me to the station and watched my baggage while I was in line to buy my ticket. I was able to get a reserved seat, but will sleep on the third level again.
Tbilisi, Thursday, Jan. 25, 1923
I arrived here at 12:30 noon. We prepared all the papers and handed in our applications. We have to return Monday for the decision and the papers.
Tbilisi, Tuesday, Jan. 30, 1923
We still have not received our papers and are now getting very tired waiting. Even Peter Janzen, who submitted his application three weeks ago has not had any results. During the day, we spent the time reading stories. Yesterday, I read a German translation of Taras Bulba. Friday evening we went to a “kino” and Sunday evening we attended a German program with proceeds going to the German Convalescent Home. The value of the Grusian bons is rapidly declining. The Turkish lira costs 550,000 bons today. Since most of the money in circulation is in the form of 5000 bons bills, the purchases require large volumes of paper money. For this reason, people carry their money, not in billfolds, but in sacks. Recently, I was in a bank, where I saw that a man had hired a musha to carry his money. Saturday, I bought a small pocket knife for 450,000 bons.
Tbilisi, Friday, Feb. 2, 1923
My future was decided today. We had been going daily to await a decision on our applications, but nothing happened until yesterday. My papers were returned and my application to emigrate denied. They wanted me to remain in Russia. Today, I obtained a pass to see the man who had the authority to make the decision. I had a short interview with him that did not improve my chances. It now appears that I will have to remain in Russia. Dick’s chances are better. The gentleman promised to have a decision on Dick’s application in ten days. Peter Janzen also has not had a reply to his application. We have heard that they are looking for him in the Crimea where he had lived before. Since it may take much longer, he left for Batum for several days today.
Elisabethal, Saturday, Feb. 3, 1923
This morning, Mr. Lods invited me to go with him to Elisabethal, which is called “Asuret '' in Grusian. I was glad to go with him. The footpath led through the mountains for a distance of 28 verst. It took us five hours to get there. We started at nine o’clock in the morning. At first, we had to climb a mountain south of Tbilisi. I found a blooming crocus on the slope. After going in a southerly direction for 1.5 hours, we came to a pass. There we strengthened ourselves by eating some bread, sausage and wine, which we had brought along with us. Then we continued our journey. We often walked along deep ravines, the sides of which were covered with berry bushes. To the north and to the south we see high snow capped mountains. Soon after we started we saw a lake, which is supposed to be saltwater. We can also see the railroad track, which leads to Kars. When we were approaching the vicinity of Asuret, we saw a large wolf run across the road. He disappeared quickly behind a mountain. Elisabethtal is located on a mountain side, has 350 farm yards and a population of about one thousand. It also has a church and a school. The houses are built with stones and wide wooden beams run through the steep gable. The roofs are covered with tile. The main occupation of the villagers is vineyard cultivation. There also is some grain farming. The customs remind me of the stories I have read about village life in Germany. Whenever a visitor comes, wine and schnapps is served. The young people gather on Sunday afternoon in groups of 8 or 10 with an accordion, drink one or two buckets of wine and then take their girls into the forest to dance.
Asuret, Sunday, Feb. 4, 1923
Today, we looked over the land and the people. It is similar to what I consider typical German village life. The men are wearing a shirt, vest and short coat. They wear short boots on their feet and a hat on their head. This evening I visited the shoemaker.
Tbilisi, Tuesday, Feb. 6, 1923
I wrote two letters today: one to America and the other to David and Neta Klassen. Evenings we are always studying English together with Jacob Janzen, who has brought a manual. This afternoon, we saw two airplanes circle the city. Dick has a very bad toothache, headache and also a very bad cough.
Batum, Tuesday, Feb. 13, 1923
In order not to neglect my diary too much, I will write today. Since there was nothing more we could accomplish in Tbilisi, we took the mail train on Friday and arrived here before noon on Saturday. We, together with Henry Dirks, Jr., moved into a room on the second story. The weather is very rainy now. The water comes down in big streams and forms virtual seas everywhere. Yesterday, S. Schmidt and I went to the D.C.L. (ship line), but they did not have time to talk with us. I also went to the harbor. There are many freighters, among them the German ships, Bosphorus and Marmaera, which arrived a few days ago. Yesterday was Dick’s birthday.
Thursday, Feb. 15, 1923
I am in a miserable disposition today. All my efforts at the D.C.L. have not brought any results. Since I cannot find a place to go, the time seems to drag on. Last night I went to the cinema with Dirkses Henry, Mary and Katherine. Have not yet had any message from Dick in Tbilisi. A. Reimer has not returned from Tbilisi yet.
Sunday, Feb. 18, 1923
A new way has opened for us. Namely, to obtain the permits for the whole group of refugees through the Rajevak. I will try my luck by joining this group. Reimer, Rosenfeld, Willems and Regher returned to Batum without their permits. Peter Janzen also returned by mail train yesterday. Dick is still waiting in Tbilisi. Before noon today, I attended a Baptist meeting where Johann Willems of Tbilisi gave a sermon. He already has obtained a passport to go to Constantinople. This afternoon, he gave a sermon at a Mennonite meeting at No. 88. It is very rainy today. I have just been to the sea. It is churning wildly and the waves are very high.
Tuesday, Feb. 2, 1923
I now have a new hope. Today we all were registered at the Rajewak. We were told that those of draft age would not be held back. We all had to obtain a paper from the American Committee and have our passports copied. Perhaps everything will be ready tomorrow. Peter Janzen left for Tbilisi today to meet the American director. I bought the ticket for him and also gave him a short letter to Dick. The weather is very good today. Last night, Henry Dirks and I brought in some corn cobs. Before evening a ship left for Constantinople.
Wednesday, Feb. 21, 1923
Sent a letter to America today. Our project at the Ewak appears delayed for a few days. It was necessary to obtain papers from the Turkish and Italian consulates for the American Committee. Right now I'm sitting in the Academic Theatre and am writing notes while waiting for the performance to start. Two famous comedians from Loskow, Bim Bam will appear. They told very interesting jokes. There were not enough comedians at the conference, so they had to come to join them. The lighted things are prices. They go up by themselves. The heaviest thing is the ruble. It has fallen so deep that it cannot be picked up anymore. He does not like it abroad. There he would be a beggar and here he is a millionaire. They made wonderful music on a violin, guitar, drum, trumpet, cymbal, two harmonicas, broom handle, etc.
Batum, Thursday, Feb. 22, 1923
Today, we received the papers from the American Committee and from the Italian consul and submitted them to the Ewak. Since tomorrow and the next day are holidays, the papers will not be ready until Monday. Today was a warm spring day. I have just been to the sea. While there is no wind, the swells are very high. A large foreign ship was leaving for Constantinople. This morning, a Russian ship “Pestel '' came in. At the present time, there are many ships in the International harbor. Batum has an interesting solution to their fuel for heating problem. Wherever there are heavy rains much wood is carried into the sea from the mountains and deposited on the shore, which is sufficient to satisfy the demand of the population. Besides that the corn stalks are left in the fields after the harvest and are available without charge. Today, I saw a Turk with a pet deer on the street. I have also often seen a bear that the soldiers in the neighborhood are feeding. We recently had meatballs made from wild boar meat for dinner.
Friday, Feb. 23, 1923
Dick came back from Tbilisi today and brought his passport with him. He received his papers from the Narkom yesterday.
Sunday, Feb. 25, 1923
Yesterday was an important holiday. The city, and particularly the Mariinsky Prospect, were decorated with green garlands interwoven with strings of colored electric lights. In the evening, the whole city was beautifully illuminated. The weather is very good this afternoon. In the evening, there was bright moonlight. Peter Janzen came back from Tbilisi yesterday.
Monday, Feb. 26, 1923
Our papers at the Ewak were ready today. Peter Janzen has taken them to Tbilisi with him. He also took Dick’s passport to obtain an entry visa from the German consul. I wrote and mailed a letter to Jacob and Greta Loewen today. The ship “Karneolia”, which Dick will be taking, will arrive on Wednesday and leave for Trieste in a week.
Tuesday, Feb. 27, 1923
I took a long walk today. This morning, Henry Dirks and I waited a long time at the harbor until the offices were open. After that, we went beyond Gorodok (small city), which consists principally of storage tanks for petroleum and naphtha, and sent a telegram by radio-telegraph from Mr. Schroeder to Berlin. Henry then returned home and I walked along the railroad track to Machindauri, which consists entirely of datchas. Some of them are very beautiful and have wonderful locations. There also is a small station for the local (datchnyj) train.Then I went to the next station. It is in a beautiful location. Just past this station is the tunnel that leads through the mountain.
The station building is small but it has a beautiful shady yard where there are tables and benches. On both sides of the track are steep tree-covered hills with many beautiful datchas. I rested for a while and then went on to the botanical gardens that are located some distance from Zelony Mys. I first went up some steps and then followed a crooked narrow path. It had some arrows pointing the way, but it was difficult to stay on the right path. Once I walked up some wide beautiful steps bordered by ivy. When I arrived at the top, I was right next to a beautiful villa in which a piano was played. Since there was no side path, I had to go back down the steps again. I kept on walking and eventually came to the Botanical Gardens. But you can hardly call it a garden because it consists of a conglomeration of all kinds of different trees interwoven with climbing vines so that the area is not passable in many places. Through all this are foot paths leading in various directions. There were also some small waterfalls. I kept on going on and on and finally came to the cultivated portion. This area was very clean with improved walkways between the plants , which were identified by their Latin names on small plates posted next to the individual plants. In many places, bamboo pipes are installed from which clear water flows. For a memento, I cut myself a beautiful walking stick of black bamboo. Then I started my return trip and after a lot of running, arrived at the station near the Zelony Mys. There I ate a little bread and drank a bottle of lemonade. The datchny train arrived soon after I had eaten. It stopped only for a short time and then went through the tunnel to Tschakum. I had a very beautiful view from the mountain. Before me was the sea in bright sunshine. The water was very calm because there was no wind. In the distance, there were many boats on the sea. To the right was a beautiful view of the shoreline with the railroad running along the shore. On the left side is the city of Batum, which from here appears to lie on a peninsula because there is a deep bay beyond it. At 4 o’clock, I started my return walk from Zelony Mys and arrived home about 6 o’clock. The distance was about 10 verst. On my walk today I saw many flowers. Among them were many violets, alpine violets and snowbells. The acacia dealbata also has very beautiful sweet-smelling yellow blossoms.
Batum, March 1, 1923
Yesterday, I sat at home all day, but today I made up on what I missed yesterday. Early this morning, Regier and I went to Mashindjauri and Zeleny Mys, where Regier wanted to sell a Primu to the cook of a former employer. We first went to the International harbor. There we saw a large ship, “Phryngie”, being unloaded. Large heavy crates were moved by a tractor that traveled not on wheels but on chains to a large crane which then transferred them to freight cars. Then we followed the railroad track to Zeleny Mys to the villa von Stie, where Regier was formerly employed. The villa is located on a mountain slope at the bottom of which is the railroad station. There were paths leading through the garden with some concrete steps. Potatoes were being planted in the garden. From there, we went on to Mashindjauri and each bought a pound of bread and a bottle of lemonade. We then continued our walk to the Ponzers sulfur springs and then returned home. We had a wonderful view from the villa. We saw a Russian ship arrive and the Bosphorus and Marmara depart. We saw the following fruit trees: oranges, mandarins, figs, etc. Due to the climate, the banana trees have no fruit. Some of the banana leaves are 12 feet long and 3 feet wide.
Mushmala is a small fruit similar to crabapples, Lionskaja Furia is a tomato-like sweet fruit. I picked up some palm tree seeds for a memento. On my way back, I had the misfortune to tear a sole from one of my shoes. Besides that my nose started bleeding and I could not stop it. Dick had a message from Peter Janzen today that his papers and visa will be received tomorrow. He will also have his lists approved.
Batum, Friday, March 2, 1923
One of the Batum refugees, Jacob Bergen, 25 years old, died at 10 o’clock this morning and was buried this afternoon. Dick has not yet received his passport from Tbilisi. We still have very nice weather. Since my shoe was torn, I had to sit at home until noon. Then Henry Dirks, Sr., repaired my shoe and we went to cash a check that Mr. Schroeder, however, was not able to cash. Henry Dirks, Jr., came home today with a fever.
Saturday, March 3, 1923
Today, we have rainy weather. Before noon, we ran around and tried to cash our check. But since Peter Janzen is returning from Tbilisi today, we will turn this matter over to him. Janzen brought back good news from Tbilisi. The permits for the whole group are to be ready by Tuesday. Dick has not yet received his passport and his German visa. P. Janzen had given them to the manager of the restaurant on the mail train and they should have arrived here yesterday. Now, we will have to wait until Monday.
Sunday, March 4, 1923
Today, I took another walk to the Botanical Gardens and I like it so well, that I will go again tomorrow even though I went there twice last week. The weather was cloudy all day, but very good. This morning at 8:30 am, Mary Dirks, Peter Rogalaky and I went to the harbor. Many dolphins were playing in the water. Two of them had been caught and were lying on the shore so that we could look them over. Then we followed the railroad track to Zeleny Mys. Dick and Henry wanted to come along, however divided to wait for the mail train, to see whether Dick’s papers had arrived. We then proceeded to the Botanical Gardens. We first came to the uncultivated areas where all kinds of tropical plants were growing colorful disarray. We also picked a number of various beautiful flowers, among them snowbells and Alpen violets. Later, we arrived at the cultivated portion of the Gardens. Since it is not permitted to pick flowers there, we had to leave them at the entrance and pick them up after. After we had visited all of the Gardens and were resting at the Krasnova Mogila, we saw Dick and Henry running in the valley. We called to let them know where we were and they climbed up the hill waving bottles in their hands. In an arbor equipped with a table and benches, we had a wonderful snack consisting of bread, sausage, apples and lemonade. Then all of us started our return walk home. At the exit, we collected our flowers and picked several more so that we had a beautiful bouquet to take home.
The old Mrs. Birkle died and was buried today.
This evening, all the Mennonites had a meeting where P. Janzen made a report on the situation of our affairs in Tbilisi.
Monday, March 5, 1923
This morning, the “Karneolia” of Trieste Lloyd arrived. This is the ship that Dick will take to Venice. Dick finally received his papers from the German consulate today and submitted them to the Russian consulate for a visa. The ship is scheduled to leave Batum on Thursday.
We have purchased some postcards of Batum today. We will send them to relatives and friends in Russia. A rs. Bekker of our group of Mennonites is leaving this evening on the steamer “Phryngle”. P. Janzen will go to Tbilisi tomorrow and will cash our check there. This evening we can hear the coyotes howling under our window.
Tuesday, March 6, 1923
Today, Dick received the Russian, Italian, Turkish and Quarantine visas but was not ready to submit them to the Osoby Otdel. He has already bought his ticket for 15 lira. He has to disembark in Constantinople and obtain his Italian visa and ticket to Venice. His ship is scheduled to leave on Thursday. Peter Janzen went to Tbilisi today to pick up all the papers. This morning, I went to the railroad station and bought a ticket for P. Janzen. This afternoon, Henry Dirks and I went to the radio-telegraph station, where Henry sent a telegram to Berlin. As we passed the harbor, we observed the loading of the “Karneolia”. The you bear that the soldiers had on a chain tore loose today. Since they thought that it may attack people, it had to be shot.
Batum, Wednesday, March 7, 1923
Dick submitted his papers to the Osoby Otdel today and is to receive his visa tomorrow. The departure of the “Karneolia” has been postponed by a day. She will not leave tomorrow but the day after at 4 pm. I have been sitting at home all day reading “Jim Blaz”. Today, I finished reading the book.
Friday, March 9, 1923
Dick is on his voyage to Constantinople and now is rocking and rocking on the Black Sea. After we had our breakfast, I went to buy white bread, sausage and beer for Dick to take on the trip. At 9:30 am, after we had packed Dick’s baggage, we went to the International harbor where many passengers stood in line to have their baggage inspected. The harbor is fenced off and since I did not have a pass, I was not permitted to enter. Therefore, I had to say good-bye to Dick and went to the railroad station to meet Peter Janzen, who was coming back from Tbilisi today. But he did not come. Mr. Koop, who had accompanied a Mrs. Wiens and her three children, went to the ship with me.
This afternoon, I attended the funeral of a young Mrs. Kosfeld who had died last night. Then I went to the harbor to see Dick off. Since I could not go to the ship, I had to look through the cracks in the fence. Dick was already on the ship and recognized me immediately. He is traveling 3rd class. The “Karneolia” left at 5 pm. As the ship passed the Russian harbor, we recognized each other and waved our caps. The ship at first went straight to sea and then turned west to Tropesund. I sat on the roof of our demilitarized building and saw the ship disappear in the distance while I was making a drawing of the abandoned building.
Saturday, March 10, 1923
This morning, I was at the railroad station to meet P. Janzen, but he again did not arrive today. I wrote a letter to the A. Klassens in Halbstadt today and another one to the Neufelds in Reedley, but since the post office was closed I cannot mail them until Tuesday since Monday is a holiday. Tomorrow, we will go to Zeleny Mye again.
Batum, Sunday, March 11, 1923
Yesterday, we decided to go back to Zeleny Mys. This will be our 4th trip. This morning, right after breakfast, a group consisting of Mary Wiens, Mary, Katherine and Henry Dirks and I went to a predetermined place where Jacob Rogalsky and his wife joined us. I brought my knapsack that we filled with bread, sausages and oranges in town. We were going to rent a boat but none were available, so we had to go by foot. We arrived at the Zeleny Mys railroad station in about two hours. A few minutes later, the mail train came thundering through the tunnel P. Janzen was at a window and yelled to us that he had all the papers. As we walked along the track, we suddenly met P. Janzen, who had jumped from the train and joined our group. We walked through the Botanical Gardens up to Krasnova Mogila, where we all had refreshments. ThenP. Janzen and I went back to Batum. A driver took us back to town for a very low price. Janzen picked up his baggage at the station and had a muscha carry it home for him. He brought us some good news. The presiding officer of the Ewak promised to have all the papers ready by Monday. To get my papers after several refusals cost a great deal of money, so that what I have left will not be enough to get to Germany. Therefore, I will send a telegram to Dick tomorrow asking him to send some money from Germany to Constantinople. P. Janzen will not be able to cash our check in Tbilisi because a certificate of uncle Neufeld’s signature was required.Janzen will go back to Tbilisi as soon as he gets the check from the American Committee.
Batum, March 12, 1923
This morning, I went to the radio station and sent a telegram to Dick on the “karneolia” that said:Karneloia, passenger Rempe, “after arrival in Germany send Constantinople 80 dollars”. From there, I went to the railroad station where the mail train had just arrived from Tbilisi. Jacob Janzen had just arrived on it. In the afternoon, I took a local train to the radio station to find out whether the telegram had been delivered. I was told that Karneolia had not responded. I assumed that she was sitting in a harbor with the motors shut off. This evening, Henry and I were in the theater to see “Quo Vadis”.
Tuesday, March 13, 1923
At 9 o’clock this morning, our group gathered on the Boulevard to have our photograph taken. However, since taking pictures on the Boulevard is forbidden, and since no other suitable place could be found, nothing became of it. In the afternoon, I tried to have my check cashed, but the notary at the Amercom could not certify the signature of uncle Neufeld. Mr. Schroeder then signed the check and the notary certified his signature. In the afternoon, I went back to the radio station where I was told that the Karneolin had accepted the message last night. This evening, we have been singing.
Wednesday, March 14, 1923
I have mailed two letters today: one to A. Warkentin and Dick and the other to the Neufelds and brothers and sister. In the afternoon, Mary, Katherine, Janzen and I went to the datcha in Ereshov. On the way up and back we have been singing songs.
Thursday, March 15, 1923
This evening, we saw two ships come in. One was the Cotinthis of the Lloyd Triest line and the other belonged to a Turkish company. P. Janzen has not yet gone back to Tbilisi because he has not yet received the check from Amercom. I have made a list of all the books, photographs and documents that have to be certified when they are entrusted to the ship management. Dick should have arrived in Constantinople yesterday.
Batum, Saturday, March 17, 1923
I mailed two letters today. One was to David Klassen with enclosed cards to Solomom Ediger's and the other to Herman Rempel in Gnadenfeld with enclosed cards to Hans and Willy Braun, and Mr. Epp, Voth, Nickel and Fast. Today was a rainy day. This evening, we can see the lights of a steamer far out at sea.
Sunday, March 16, 1923
This morning, Jacob Janzen and I went to the station to meet P. Janzen but he did not arrive today. However, the presiding officer of the Ewak returned today and gave us the good news that we all had received the Turkish visa in Tbilisi. Then Jacob and I went for a walk through town. It was a holiday and there was a parade. The fire department marched and rode through the streets to the sound of horn music toward the place where speeches were to be given. We then went on to the harbor. There was only one ship there, the “Rashi Pasha” of a Turkish ship line. This afternoon, we sang songs from the Liederperlen. Then Henry and I went to the Boulevard and saw some bicycle races. We saw a German ship “Alpha” come in and a small Turkish ship leave.
Monday, March 19, 1023
P. Janzen has not returned from Tbilisi yet. We called on all the ship companies today and found out that there would be no departures in the near future. It rained all day today and was uncomfortable.
Tuesday, March 20, 1923
It rained all day today. The list of our books, photographs and other papers has been approved. We can’t quite understand why Peter J. has not yet returned from Tbilisi. The American Committee has not received the check yet. The steamer “Rashid Pasha” left today.
Saturday, March 24, 1923
I have not written down anything for several days, but several things have happened and our case has made some progress. Peter J. returned from Tbilisi on Thursday and brought be $176, which he received for my check. I paid off all my debts to Mr. Schroeder and Mr. Rogalsky. It took practically all the money, but I believe that I will still have enough to get to Constantinople. Peter J. received the check the same day and returned to Tbilisi to have it cashed. The rainy weather that lasted for a week has finally ended. Yesterday, we made the rounds of all the ship companies, but no ships are scheduled to arrive in the next few days. The next arrival is the “Remo” of the Lloyd Triestino line, which is due on Thursday, March 29 and is scheduled to leave after two days. Since this is the first and most suitable ship, we have already ordered our tickets. We were able to get them for 10 lyras each. Today I wrote a letter to A. Klassens in Halbstadt with cards enclosed for Gustav Rempels and Heinrich Klassens. The rainy weather, which lasted for about a week, has now changed to beautiful sunny weather.
Sunday, March 25, 1923
We now have typical April weather. Everything possible came down from heaven: rain, hail and even some snow, which occurs very seldom here. This is only the second time it has snowed this year. The sea is churning and roaring. The spray from the crashing waves shoots way up and looks white against the dark sky. Off and on, the sun shines through the clouds for a few moments. Two English ships have arrived here, but both are fruit carriers. Peter J. has not yet arrived from Tbilisi, but sent a letter saying that he will arrive on Tuesday.
Batum, Monday, March 26, 1923
Today, I sent a letter to the Loewens in Gnadenfeld with enclosed cards for uncle Henry Dirks and aunt Mary Dirks.
Batum, Tuesday, March 27, 1923
Peter Janzen returned from Tbilisi today. In the afternoon, Jacob and Peter Janzen and I went to the Banja Chadju for a bath.
Batum, Wednesday, March 28, 1923
We have beautiful warm weather today. In the morning, I made the rounds to the various institutions with Peter Janzen. In the afternoon, we had a small discussion about money.
Batum, Friday, March 30, 1923
We finally were able to get our passports and visas from the Osoby Otdel today. We also have bought our tickets for the voyage. Tomorrow, our whole group, except Willms and K. Koop, will depart from Batum on the Italian steamer, “Remo”. Mrs. Koop will probably leave on Monday on a Turkish ship and P. Willms has to go back to Tbilisi to pick up his papers, which were promised to be ready on Monday. In the evening, we all had a meeting.
Black Sea, Sunday, April 1, 1923
Today Easter is celebrated all over the world. Who would have thought that we would celebrate Easter on the ship “Remo” on the waves of the Black Sea. Our ship now sits in the harbor of a small town called Risoni (Risa) in Anatolia. In order not to get too far ahead, I will describe our departure from Batum and our trip up to here.
Yesterday morning, Henry Dirks, Sr. awakened us at 4:30 am. We soon had packed our belongings and had our breakfast. Just when we were ready, it began to rain very hard. This worried us because we had ordered wagons to take us to the harbor for 6 'o'clock. Because we wanted to get there as soon as possible to take our place in the lineup for the inspection. Shortly after six the drivers appeared with their wagons that, fortunately, were covered with canvas. After they left, I went to Peter Janzen to pick up my bamboo cane. However, he had forgotten it at the house of a Russian friend, where he had gone to say goodbye the night before. Since these people were still asleep, I had to wait a long time before I got my cane back. From there, we went to the harbor where the other had stacked our baggage under an overhang. It rained very hard and made the waiting disagreeable. Besides that, the inspectors did not show up until noon, although the ship had been scheduled to leave at 11 am. Besides our ship, there were also a Turkish and an American ship in the harbor. When the control inspectors arrived, we had to turn in our passports and then were passed one by one. At first, each of us was searched in a room marked Ab. There, I was permitted to take all my papers including my diary. Then I, with all of my belongings, was put into another room where all things were inspected. Besides my knapsack I had a basket in which Peter and Jacob Janzen and myself had our provisions. This all had been dumped out and mixed together and then thrown back in again. When I was in the second room, I was able to pack it decently again. The Janzens and myself were some of the first to go through the inspection and were hoping to get on the ship soon. However, all those who had been searched and inspected were kept in a fenced off area and kept under heavy guard. Only after 3 o’clock, the first group was led to the ship. Peter Janzen was the first permitted to board the ship, I was the fifth. We were assigned to the steerage in the lower portion of the ship. There were no benches and we had to make ourselves comfortable on the floor. We helped the other Mennonites, who soon followed us, to take their baggage down the steep steps. When all of them were aboard, the room was practically full. Since our room was located below the water level, there were no windows, and it was very poorly lit with small electric bulbs.
The first group included most of the Mennonites. Only Regier was held as a suspect and taken to prison. They came back to speak to Peter Janzen, but since he could prove his innocence, he was released and boarded the ship with the second group. All others with the exception of Jacob Rogalsky and wife, who were held back, were gradually permitted to board the ship. At six o’clock by the ship’s clock, when it was beginning to get dark, we left Batum. The sky had cleared and the weather much improved. When we reached the open sea, the waves were very high and the ship began to roll very much. The sunset and the general view of the sea and Batum was very beautiful. But I did not have much time to admire the scenery. My head and my stomach started to turn around and I had to go down to our room. I tried all kinds of preventative remedies, such as lying on my back, sucking a lemon, etc. But all this did not help much and I had to go back on deck. There was bright moonlight. I was sitting on a board next to the railing, and had to lean over and look at the water off and on. I spent about half of the night in this manny. It was cold outside, but as soon as I started to go down into the ship, I had to run back and lean over the railing. Finally around midnight, with my stomach practically empty, I was able to climb down the steps and reach my place among the baggage and sleeping people. I took a swallow of cognac, laid down on my back and soon fell asleep, because I was very tired. When I awoke this morning, the sea had quieted down and the ship did not rock as much.
We arrived here (Risa) at sunrise and anchored near the wharf. The weather today is very good. The sea is quiet and the sun shines nice and warm. Here the sea is surrounded with mountains to the south, which are covered with green grass and houses. Most of the houses have two or three stories.The mountains are very high and the tops are covered with snow. Soon after our arrival, some boats came out to sell beautiful oranges. Just now, a nice boat pulled up with four men dressed in red sailor suits with white stripes and with Turkish fezes on their heads. It is almost noon now and we are not yet proceeding with our voyage. The ship is loading many cases of oranges, which are being shipped to Constantinople. After loading several thousand pounds of oranges, our ship proceeded west from Risa along the Anatolian coast. The lower portion of the mountains is green, but the higher portions are covered with heavy snow.
Our steamer is traveling quite fast but it is not rolling because the sea is quiet. We spent most of the afternoon on deck in the sunshine. Our steamer is large and very long. It has a displacement of 8000 tons, is 130 meters long and 15 meters wide. The width to length ratio is small, which improves the traveling speed. It has accommodations for 80 passengers first class, 40 passengers second class and 1200 passengers third class. The first-class cabins and other accommodations are very good.
After a four hour voyage, we arrived in Tropesund at sundown. During the trip, we had an Easter sermon by H. Dyck. The trip from Batum to Tropesund required exactly 24 hours. Our steamer travels at a speed of 16 nautical miles per hour. As we pulled into the harbor, a large Turkish ship with two smoke stacks was leaving for Constantinople. Besides that, there was a small American war ship in the harbor.
Tropesund, Monday, April 2, 1923
Our ship has been sitting here on the wharf all day. The ship was being loaded all this time with all kinds of wares. Among them was wool. Heavily-loaded boats pull up to the side of the ship and the wares are lifted onto the ship with large cranes. We are having pleasant weather.
The city is peculiarly beautiful. It is placed like an amphitheater on the eastern side of a peninsula. On the right side, the shore consists of steep cliffs with a lighthouse on top. To the left of the city is a tall steep mountain with a monastery on top, which supposedly is built of pure marble. Most of the homes have several stories and seem to be located in a haphazard order. Streets cannot be seen. Cobbled roads lead up the mountain on which one can see caravans of camels with men riding on them. The inhabitants are almost exclusively Turks, who can be recognized by their red fezes. Last night, we sat on the deck and sang songs. The city was well lit and the moon was glistening on the calm surface of the sea. This afternoon, the Italian steamer, “Abano”, which comes from Genoa, came in and anchored here. This evening, at ten o’clock, we will leave Tropezund and continue our voyage.
Karasund, Tuesday, April 3, 1923
When I woke up this morning, our ship was already sitting at anchor in Karasund (Kersun). The weather has changed. It is cloudy, the wind is blowing and the waves are running high. The boats that are bringing passengers to the ship are dancing on the waves, and are making a great effort to deposit their passengers onto the ship. The city is beautifully located. The left portion is built on a rocky high mountain that protrudes into the sea. The city extends halfway up the mountain. The right portion is located on a lower level with a sharp peak in the background. Most of the buildings have several stories and there minarets scattered throughout the city. There are many old rock walls covered with moss and ivy. The surf is getting wilder and wilder and the spray is rising to the height of houses when the waves crash against the stony shore. I am afraid I will become sick again when we are out on the open sea again. We have more room in the ship now since several Turkish families disembarked in Tropesund.
We left Karasund at 11 am. After we had gone just a short distance, we met Turkish steamers. We also passed a small rocky island surrounded by the raging sea with foam and spray. The ship was rocky badly and since I did not want to get sick again, I went to our hold and went to sleep. When I awoke at 4 pm, we were already in Orda.
Since the storm has subsided, chickens, eggs, beans and other wares are being loaded on the ship. The city of Orda lies in an amphitheater-shaped oval bay. In the foreground of the city are the ruins of an old fortress surrounded by thick rock walls. In the background is a high mountain, just as in the other cities on the coast of Anatolia that we have seen earlier. Villas and orange groves cover the side of the mountain almost to the top, which is now covered with snow after the rain. The trees appear to be very green. We are still in the harbor of Orda. I am very glad that I did not get seasick today for the storm was very severe and a large number of passengers were sick. This evening, we had a devotional meeting. Later we all sat on the deck singing. The city is well lit. We probably will not leave here until 3 am, so that we will arrive at the next harbor in the morning.
Faza, Wednesday, April 4, 1023
We left Orda during the night and arrived here in Faza in the morning. This is a small town located on a flat shore. The mountains can be seen in the distance. The hills are covered with hazelnut bushes and flowers. A small rocky island lies beyond the harbor. It is foggy and a fine rain is falling. The ship is being loaded with corn.
Samsun, evening
The loading was completed at 2:30 pm and we left Faza. According to the speed indicator attached to the back of the ship, we are making 13 to 14 nautical miles per hour. We arrived here in Samsun this evening but it was dark. We could see very little of the city. An American warship is anchored here just as in Trepesund.
Samsun, April 5, 1923, 11 am
We have been here in Samsun since last night. It is a large beautiful city located on a bay formed by a peninsula with a lighthouse on the tip. The city consists mostly of three to five houses between which there is a sprinkling of minarets. Behind the city is a large green mountain, where one can see plowed fields and sheep grazing. Behind the green mountains are snow-covered mountain tops. The weather is very good today. The sun is shining and the sea is flat as a mirror. At noon, we will continue our journey to Inebolu. We will not stop at Sinop and Tonguldak.
Inebolu, Friday, April 6, 1923
After leaving Samsun at noon yesterday, we arrived here this morning after a 16 hour journey. Since we are not going to stop at Sinop, we have 125 nautical miles to Caspoli (Constantinople) and probably will arrive there tomorrow. Yesterday, the second machinist, who speaks good German, took me into the engine room and showed it to me. The steam engine is very large and has three cylinders. The drive shaft leading to the propellers is 45 cm in diameter and is accurately centered on the bearings, of which 4 were in operation. Last night, we sat on the deck singing songs until it got too cold and we went to bed.
When we awoke this morning, we were in Inebolu. This city as well as all the others along the Anatolian coast have no harbor where steamers can pull in. Therefore all the goods that are loaded, of which there seems to be a great deal, must be brought out on boats and lifted onto the ship by cranes. The shore consists of a steep perpendicular rocky mountain.The city is located to the right and behind this rock at the base of a high forest-covered mountain, the upper half of which is covered with snow. A mountain stream flows into the sea through the city. It probably becomes a torrential stream in spring because a large bridge is built across it. The houses are built with gray stones and are placed very close together, so that it is hard to distinguish them
Constantinople, Saturday, April 7, 1923
Our long-awaited wish has finally come to pass. We arrived here in Constantinople today. We left Imboli yesterday at 2 pm. When I woke up this morning we were still rocking on the Black Sea. The sea was very turbulent and since I did not feel too well, I remained in my sleeping place. Once we entered the Bosphorus, which of course was very quiet, did I venture to go on deck at 9 am. The Bosphorus is much wider and longer than I had anticipated. Near the Black Sea, the shore is very steep and I estimate the width to be 500 to 1000 meters. After we had gone a considerable distance on the Bosphorus, we came to a small bay, where several ships had stopped. We also had to stop for an inspection by the Sanitation Commission. Since there had not been any cases of sickness or deaths on our ship, we were permitted to proceed after two hours with a quarantine visa stamped on each passport. The further trip through the Bosphorus was very interesting. There were beautiful villas reaching right down to the water’s edge. The population density increased as we progressed toward Constantinople. There were also more and more steamers in the narrow straits.
Constantinople, Easter Sunday, April 8, 1923
It is very difficult to write down all the experiences and impressions of the last days and months. Today is an important day for me. Besides being Easter Sunday, it is also my 21st birthday, my first day in Turkey and I will probably meet Dick today. I am writing this in a room in a hotel in Constantinople. I will now give a short description of what happened after we arrived at the harbor. Since we did not have a Turkish transit visa, we were not permitted to leave the ship. All the Russians and Jews also had to remain on the ship. Only the Turks were permitted to disembark. Soon after we arrived, a certain Mr. Nachtgal, who always has been very helpful to the Mennonites, offered his services. He gathered all of our passports and promised to try to get permission for us to disembark in Turkey. At 6 pm, we were afraid that we would have to spend the night on the ship, which had pulled out from the harbor and was sitting at anchor. However, the time was passing fast due to all the interesting activity in the harbor. Finally, at 6:30 pm, Mr. Nachtigal and Mr. Schroeder arrived. They had been able to get a special permit from the Ministerium for all the Mennonites to disembark. They brought a few boats with them. After our baggage and all of us were loaded on the boats, we returned to the harbor. The Jews were looking very sad. After Mr. Nachtigal and Peter Janzen found lodging for us. We put our luggage on a wagon and came to this hotel. We were able to get only five rooms on the 3rd, 4th and 5th stories. We were naturally very crowded, but all had a good night’s sleep. I, and another man slept outside on a balcony and I slept exceptionally well. Since Easter was celebrated today, there were loud bangs, ringing of bells and the most lamentable monotonous music all night. Right under our balcony was a catholic church where an early morning service was held. All the people left the church carrying long burning candles. Since it started to rain in the morning, I was not inclined to go for a walk. Besides that, we had a beautiful view of the city and the Bosphorus from our balcony.
Peter Janzen and Mr. Nachtigal went to a town in Anatolia to find lodging for us. We are all going there this afternoon. I found out from Mr. Schroeder that Dick is here, so I will try to find him today.
Ghieua-Tepe, Tuesday, April 10, 1023
Yesterday I came here to Ghieuz-Tepe with the whole group. The day before yesterday, Peter Janzen had rented a villa for the whole group. Yesterday at 7:30 am, we started our trip to Anatolia. Jacob Janzen took the women, children and old people ahead on the local ferry to Haider-Pasha and then by train to here. We men stayed with the baggage then loaded on four wagons and took them to the harbor on the Golden Horn on the side of the bridge. We rented a boat that took us and the baggage to Kodogoy in Asia Minor and arrived there at 8:30 am. After a long argument with the police, we were finally permitted to land. They wanted a guarantee that we would really live here in Ghieuz-Tepe before they would let us disembark. We finally had to produce the contract with the owner of the villa before we could move in. Dick and I do not live in the villa, but in an attic of another house, where Mennonites lived, who came here earlier. In another little room across from us live Hans Pankratz and Abram Dick. Yesterday, I made the railroad trip between Ghieuz-Tepe three times. Haider-Pasha is a large railroad terminal of a track that leads to Bagdad. Local trains leave practically every hour and are always exactly on time. Ghieuz-Tepe is the third stop and the run between Haider-Pasha and here requires only 12 minutes. Once can buy a ticket to Constantinople and take a ferry from Haider-Pasha to the city. Dick and Henry Dirks went to town today to make various purchases. I wrote a letter to Mr. Abram Warkentin.
Ghieu-Tepe, Friday, April 13, 1923
I wrote a letter to uncle William Neufeld today. Since we have no money, we cannot proceed with our trip through Germany to America. This is no problem for me because I like it here in Anatolia. Dick and I live in a small roof attic as I mentioned before. We are boarding with Carl Rempels. Poor Carl is still very sick with fever and Agnetha has it off and on. Carl had to go to town on a very important matter. Since he was afraid that he would get very sick on the way, he asked me to accompany him. We took the train to Haider-Pasha. The train here travels very fast and stops very suddenly. One would know immediately that we are abroad. When we arrived in Haider-Pasha, the local ferry was ready for departure. I took a place on deck and Carl took a place in first class, because he was afraid of the cold wind. We crossed the Bosphorus and disembarked on the bridge over the Golden Horn, which is 468 meters long and connects Stambul and Constantinople. This place is very busy. There is a continuing whistling and noise from the departing and arriving steamers, and the automobile horns on the bridge. Hydroplanes are swirling above. There is a guard station at each end of the bridge, where toll is collected from all passengers and pedestrians. At a certain time each night, when the traffic on the bridge has diminished, a portion of the bridge is raised to permit the ships to pass. The part of town where we landed is called Galata. Only a short distance from the bridge we bought tickets to go through a 614 meter long underground cable car tunnel. When we came out of the dark of the tunnel, we were in the portion of town called Pera. Here, Carl Rempel, Abram Rempel, Jacob Toews and Jahann Pankratz wanted to make down payments on their tickets for travel to America at the Red Cross office. Since there were many people there, we had to stand in line and were told that their numbers would not come up until tomorrow. Carl and I walked down the Pera and Bank streets back to galata, where we had some tea. From there, we took the streetcar to Ortakouy, where Carl wanted to check out some money at the Near East Relief office. While Carl was at the office, which is located close to the Bosphorus, I stood at the shore and watched the activity. There were many large and small warships anchored there and many motor boats coming and going and above them a number of hydroplanes were circling. Then we took the streetcar back to the harbor. On the way, we passed the castle of the Sultan.
From the harbor, we took the local ferry to Haider-Pasha and the train home. This was yesterday. Fortunately, Carl did not have any fever today but he did have so much fever during the night that cannot go back to the Red Cross today. Last night, we all had our photographs taken because Peter Janzen went to town today to change all our Russian passports to French “Laissez-Passe”. Dick earned some Turkish liras yesterday and again today by painting Easter eggs for the nuns at the monastery. Since we have paid off all our debts, we have no money left. Since Dick had all of his possessions stolen, when he arrived in Constantinople, he bought a beautiful new suit and hat. Yesterday we had a sing hour. The choir has become much larger since the Batum group has joined it.
Ghieuz-Tepe, Wednesday, April 18, 1923
I have not made an entry in my diary for about a week, and since I may be sorry later, I will catch up. For the last three days, Dick and I worked for daily wages at the monastery farm operation for A. Stadel. Our work consists mostly of digging, planting and watering a garden. It is very difficult to work the Ghieuz-Tepe Asia Minor soil. It consists of pure clay that turns into hard rock, if permitted to dry, so that it must be kept wet. The soil is turned over at least three times with the pronged forks. Black soil can be obtained only at old garbage dumps. Today, I had to bring in two loads of humus from the dump. Our daily wage is one Turkish lira. We want to buy some pants and shoes.
Monday, April 23, 1923
Last week, Dick and I earned 11 lyra. Yesterday, Dick went to town and bought a pair of shoes for himself and a pair of pants for me. Dick is working for Mr. Stadel again today, but I have no work. Dick and I entered our family on the list. The weather is getting much warmer, almost too hot to work. The trees and plants are growing well and everything is turning green. When we walk down the street for a short distance, we can see Stambul, the end of the Bosphorus and a portion of the Marmara Sea. One evening, the city of Stambul was well lit and above stood the new moon, a typical Turkish landscape. This afternoon, Dick was sick and I had to take over his work. He had only a headache and is well again.
Wednesday, April 25, 1923
Since Monday, I have been working for Mr. Stadel in the garden of the monastery. I have to water all the vegetables every morning and every evening because they would dry up otherwise. There has been no rain since I arrived here. I can see a portion of the Bosphorus, a portion of Stambul and the Marmara Sea from here. The railroad is nearby and I can see trains going back and forth almost continually. Some of the trains go as far as Baghdad and Jerusalem. Most of them go as far as Pendik, which is the boundary of the Neutral Zone. The capital of the Kemalists (Young Turkey) is Angora in Asia Minor. Constantinople belongs to the Neutral Zone. There are many airplanes in the air today. The various warships have maneuvers almost daily. There is horn music and hundreds or maybe thousands of cannon fire reports from the ships. Machine gun fire is also heard daily. Today we saw a company of English soldiers walk by. They were Scotsmen and wore skirts instead of trousers. It looked very unusual. English guards are stationed at important roads and trade centers. There are quite a few negroes in Asia Minor and many Arabs, who are brown and not as black as the negroes. The Turks have had some holidays during the last few days. The minarets remain lit throughout the night. At midnight, the people gather and walk through the streets to an irregular drumbeat and carrying lanterns. This noise has often awakened me during the night and prevented me from sleeping. Widow Koop and A. Willms arrived here in Constantinople from Batum three days ago, but have not yet obtained permission to disembark. I have decided to learn the English language with other students from the group. Today, we had our third lesson.
Wednesday, May 2, 1923
I have not written anything in my diary for a week. I am still working for Mr. Stadel at the monastery estate for daily wages. If it does not rain, I will probably have more work for the next few days. Diack also will get some work at the English Mission tomorrow. My work consists mostly of watering flowers and vegetables. Besides that, the monastery has a large dairy. The milk is taken to town daily, where the monastery supports a hospital. Besides that the monastery also has chickens and raises rabbits (over 100). The chicken eggs are hatched with a brooding machine.
Ghieuz-Tepe, Thursday, May 3, 1923
There is a terrible storm outside. I have been at the other house attending a singing hour this evening. It was almost impossible to get here due to the severe wind with rain, hail, thunder and lightning. Fortunately, I had my overcoat and galoshes with me so that I did not get soaked.
I was planting flowers all afternoon today. This morning, Mr. Sedel and I took a wagon to a gardener in Fanaraki and brought back many plants. Fanaraki lies on the sea shore and has a small harbor where the local ferry stops. It also has nice bath houses. Some English troops are stationed there. On the way, we saw some barley fields, which were already headed out and will be ready for harvest in about a month. A variety of beans raised by the Turks were already being harvested.
Friday, May 4, 1923
Today is a rainy day. I have been planting flowers at the monastery estate all day. Dick has been working on the road at the English Mission, where he earns 1 lyra and a noon meal per day. I have worked for 16 days now and have earned that many lyra. P. Janzen brought me 50 dollars from the Near East Relief today, which was sent by A. Warkentin from Germany. This evening, we had a lesson in English.
Monday, May 7, 1923
Dick and I were in Constantinople today. A possibility has developed to obtain travel tickets for our trip through the Red Cross at a low price. It was said that it would cost only 25 lyra per person. However, when we arrived there today, we were told that the tickets would cost 50 lyra per person. We are to make our payment tomorrow afternoon. Since we do not have enough money, Carl will loan us more of his money, when he receives it from the Near East Relief. However, he could not get it today and will have to go back tomorrow. Peter Janzen has offered to loan us 20 lyra, but this will not be enough. So we will have to go back to town tomorrow.
Tuesday, May 8, 1923
Dick and I went back to town today. Our application at the American Red Cross was not accepted. Miss Thringland explained to us today that they cannot help single capable men with travel tickets. They had decided to help four Mennonite families: Aron Rempel, Jacob Toews, W. Rahn and perhaps Carl Rempel. After we had lunch at “Rostov na Donu”, Dick left for home. Johann Pankratz and I took the streetcar to Stambul to visit the Ah-Sophie mosque. However, since we were asked for our passports and for 1 lyra for the guide, we postponed our visit for a few days. We then went to the Grand Bazar and the Pont Ryralloy and from there took the local ferry and train back to Ghieuz-Tepe.
Thursday, May 10, 1923
Today is Ascension. I wrote a letter to David Klassens in Ohrloff. In the afternoon, we played soccer. It was hot and we perspired all over but we enjoyed it very much. But we were not happy in the evening. This morning,,, Dick had gone back to the Red Cross to see whether it still would be possible for us to get transportation through them. We are to go back in a few days to find out. Aron Rempel, Carl Rempel, Jacob Toews, Berkeley Rahn and Jacob Dick paid for their ship tickets yesterday and appeared before a commission today. The American consul will start today to issue visas for entry to the United States. I worked for Mr. Citadel yesterday and was asked to come back tomorrow.
Ghieuz-Tepe, Thursday, May 15, 1923
When I reported for work this morning, I was told that there would be no work until noon. Therefore, Dick and I went to Constantinople together to see whether it would not be possible to get our visas and ship tickets through the Red Cross. Miss Thringland told us that she would be able to obtain tickets for all Mennonites at 90 lyra per person, and that visas could be granted without obtaining affidavits. Our leader, Peter Janzen, will submit a list of all those who have not yet received their visas. Dick received a letter from Mr. O. Miller today with 125 dollars travel money and an affidavit from a Mr. Heller, Lancaster County, PA. He will, therefore, have to go to Pennsylvania to pay off his debt. Dick also received a letter from Neufelds in Reedley. Aunt Margaret wrote that she had sent our affidavits to Batum, so that we may be getting them by the next mail. Aunt Margaret also writes that she wants to borrow the travel money and send it to us. We made some big purchases today: straw hats for both of us and a suit for me for 10 lyra. We also bought some handkerchiefs and socks. We bought the suit at the Grand Bazar, which is a very large building with many passages. At one time it had been a large horse stable. One can find all kinds of wares there. When we went through the tunnel to the Pera district, we had a seat in the last car, so that we could see along the whole distance and the meeting with the descending train. It was an interesting and remarkable sight. We then walked along the Pera to Taksim and from there to the Red Cross. From there we went to Stambul, where I bought the suit. We then had a meal at “Rostov na Donu”, and then took the 5 o’clock ferry back to Ghieux-Tepe. Carl and Agatha Rempel also were in town today. They obtained a medical certificate from Dr. Hoover.
Friday, May 18, 1923
The day before yesterday and yesterday and today, I again worked for Mr. Stadel. During the lunch break, Abram, Henry, Dick and I went for a swim in the sea. This is the first time we have done that this year. It went quite well, but the bottom is very uneven and there is much sea kelp. The Turks are celebrating “Bairam'' today. It is one of their most important holidays. It was preceded by 30 days of fasting. They can eat only at night. For a whole month now they have been marching through the streets around midnight with much beating of drums. We were told according to the Koran that “Bairam '' must be preceded by a day of fasting, but since it does not specify which day, they are doing it for a month to make sure not to miss it. Now the fasting is over and the Turks are out on the streets. They give presents to each other on this day, just as we do at Christmas. Everyone who enters their yard or house is invited in and served as a guest with coffee and sweets. There was heavy fog this morning, so none of the ferries were running. Tomorrow, Dick and I will go to see Dr. Hoover to get the “certificate of health” for me. The day after tomorrow, we want to visit the Prinkipo Islands and Stambul.
Saturday, May 19, 1023
Dick and I went to town today, where I obtained my certificate of health from the American Dr. Hoover. The examination dealt mostly with the eyes and cleanliness.
Cherries and strawberries are now offered for sale in town. We bought some bed bug powder today because bedbugs almost kept us from getting any sleep last night. After spending more than an hour battling the bedbugs by using the sole of my shoe to crush them, we saw no sign of victory so we dragged our beds into the hall, where our sleep was not interrupted as much the rest of the night. Since all houses are built of wood, the bedbug infestation is a very widespread problem.
Ghieuz-Tepe, Monday, May 21, 1023
Yesterday was Pentecost Sunday. We played several games of soccer with the Turks. Our planned trip was postponed until today.
Tuesday, May 22, 1923
We made a wonderful trip yesterday.. I will try to describe our experience and impressions. I was going to do it yesterday, when everything was still fresh in my mind, but did not have time for it.Our destination was the Prince Islands located in the Marmara Sea, about 5 to 10 kilometers from the mainland of Asia Minor. Our travel group consisted of 9 people: Carl and Agatha Rempel, Alexander Stadel who speaks Turkish and served as our guide, Katherine and Henry Dirks, Abram and Kate, Dick and I. We took the train to Haider-Pasha. We had 3rd class tickets, but since the train was very full, we had to stand up all the way. From Haider-Pasha, we walked to Port Kadiguey. There we had to wait until 10:10 am, when the first ship departed for the islands. While we were waiting, we sat in the coffee shop and each had a cup of tea. The local ferry also was very crowded, so that we could not find a place to sit down. Unfortunately, we got into the 1st class area, and since we had 2nd class tickets, we had to pay the difference. Our ship was driven by a paddle wheel and therefore traveled differently than a propeller-driven ship. Our first stop was the island of Proty, which we reached in a good half hour. We had decided to disembark at the island Antigony, which is our second stop. This island is sparsely inhabited and is covered with trees. On the shore near the harbor is a small settlement with some stores, restaurants and coffee houses. For our lunch, we bought some provisions in a store consisting of bread, sardines, sausage, cheese, eggs, wine and lemonade. Then we climbed the mountain into the forest. On the mountain side is a monastery estate with which Mr. Staadel is well acquainted. The forest where we were going to picnic was part of this estate. Mr. Stadel obtained permission for us and brought with him a bag of knives and forks, which we could certainly make good use of. The monastery estate is divided into two parts: the monks live in one part and the nuns in another. There is a barbed wire fence between the two. The house where the monks live is very beautiful and has a magnificent view of the sea, the neighboring islands and the mainland. Just below the house is a well-kept vineyard. The portion of the estate operated by the nuns has a well-irrigated vegetable garden.
The forest consists of sparsely scattered pine trees with small trunks. The ground is covered with stones, so that we could not find a grassy area for a picnic. Therefore, we cleared the ground of stones in the shade of a pine tree, spread a blanket, which we had brought with us and set our provisions on it. Then we sat in a circle around the blanket and started our meal. We were located exactly on the top of the mountain, so that we could see the sea on both sides of the island. In the northeast we could see the city and the Bosphorus, in the northwest the island Proty, where we stopped on our way out. To the southeast, the islands of Galky and Prinkipo, which we intend to visit next. In the southwest, there are two very rocky barren islands, which are probably not inhabited and the names of which are not known to us. The sea appeared to be nice and quiet, covered with white stripes. After we had reinforced ourselves and all the provisions had disappeared, we had a little rest and then walked back to the harbor.
On the way, we walked through the monastery garden, where we saw a beautiful wood-crucifix and a little further down a scene of Christ’s death in Gethsemane, which was beautifully done.
When we got back to the harbor, we rented two boats that were to take us to Prinkipo, the largest of the islands. It was one o'clock in the afternoon and the sun was shining bright. One boat was boarded by Mr. Stadel, Henry, Abram and Dick and the others with Carl, Agatha, Kate, Katherine and myself. Our boat left first and since our boatman was a good rower, we soon had a great lead. The trip to Prinkipo was to take 40 minutes, but since the wind was getting stronger and was blowing in the opposite direction, it took us 1.5 hours. As long as we were in the protection of a small rocky island, the boat glided smoothly over the flat surface, but as soon as we entered the open sea, the wind blew very strong and the boat rocked very much. We remained within a short distance of the third island, Galaxy, which we were not going to visit. This is the island with the Prince Palace. Even though the wind was in the opposite direction, the boatman wanted to make use of it. He set up a small mast with a sail and I had to sit at the back of the boat and operate the rudder and steer the boat toward the sea, because the wind kept on blowing us toward the island we wanted to pass. The boatman worked with oars. The farther we went, the stronger the wind became and the rocking of the boat, but we finally arrived safely at Prinkipo without any water getting into the boat. When we approached the island, we had to take down the sail and use the oars to get to the harbor, because otherwise the wind would have blown us ashore. The second boat arrived soon after we did.
We admired the beautiful island while we were still on the boat. Near the harbor were several coffee houses and restaurants. Some of the buildings were very beautiful, particularly the Hotel Splendia Palace, which was painted in a sparkling cream color. Mr. Stadel, Carl, Agatha and Henry went to a coffee house. Carl’s fever was so bad that he could hardly make it. Since there was only a little time before our departure on the return trip, we took a walk to see the rest of the island.
Next to the harbor is a beautiful city and beyond it some nice villas. We saw an interesting picture on one of the streets: two 10 or 12 year-old girls dressed exactly alike were riding two donkeys also exactly alike. Both were driven by a small boy on foot with a stick. Prinkipo is the last and largest of the Prince Islands. It is also the most built up and populated of the islands. At 4:30 pm, we left on a local ferry that had come from Pendik and Cartal. On the way back, we stopped at Galky, Antigone and Proty. After one hour we arrived at the Kadigoy harbor on the mainland. Since Carl’s vever was very bad, he took a wagon to Haider-Pasha. The rest of us ran to the station by foot. We took the 6 pm and had a restful 15 minute ride back to Ghieuz-Tepe. I have really enjoyed this trip and believe that I will never forget it, even if I should lose this diary.
Thursday, May 24, 1923
This is another work day. Yesterday and again today, I worked on the monastery estate for Mr. Stadel. Dick also had a job mowing hay today. In the evening, we had an hour of singing. Yesterday, two beggar musicians with a monkey and a bear gave a performance consisting of the bear and monkey dancing to the most terrible music on a flute and beating on a stretched out skin for a drum.
Ghieuz-Tepe, Monday, May 28, 1923
I worked for Mr. Stadel the last three days of last week. However, today he has not worked for me and it now appears that there will be no more work the rest of this week. Yesterday was Sunday. We now have wonderful weather with bright moonlight. Peter Janzen and I took an evening walk through the moon-lit streets.
Tuesday, May 29, 1923
Mr. A. Froese brought me a thick registered letter from the post office today. It was a letter from the Neufelds in Reedley and contained nine affidavits: 3 for Carl, 3 for Dick and 3 for me. It also contained a check for Carl, a check for Aron and a letter from aunt Margaret in which she says that sen wants to send Dick and me $500 dollars travel money. Tomorrow, I will immediately submit my application with the affidavits to the consul, so that I will have my visa as soon as possible. However, it is doubtful that we will be ready for the first ship departure.
Yesterday, Abram Dick, Peter Janzen and I discussed a trip to Maltepe and Tchiflik. This morning, at 8 o’clock, we started our walk along the railroad and the highway that goes along the coast. At the first station, Crenkoy, we stopped to have a cup of lemon tea. Then we continued our walk to Narly. On the way, we passed an English army camp and saw the maneuvers. When we came to Narly, we looked over the former Mennonite home. It looks very nice. It has a large vineyard. Next to it is a large concrete reservoir in which the irrigation water is stored. I took a bath in it. Gnarly is located on the slope of a mountain. We climbed up to the rocky summit.
Thursday, May 31, 1923
I had to go back to town today for the following reason: I had gone to the American consulate yesterday to submit my affidavit and my visa application but had forgotten to sign it. They told me. “It does not matter” because my name appears on the application. From the consulate, P. Janzen and I went to the Fera area, where we bought some suspenders and sandals. Then P. Janzen went to the Near East Relief and I had lunch at the “Rostov na Donu”. In the afternoon, we went to the Stambul district to make some purchases. Every person crossing the bridge has to pay a toll of one piastre. This seems to be a small amount, but due to the heavy traffic the daily toll is 600 to 800 lyra. P. Janzen and I decided to see the St. Sophia today. We traveled by streetcar. When we arrived, our passports were collected. After the officer approved them we were permitted entry. We had to put the large leather overshoes over our shoes in order not to desecrate the mosque. It is built according to the Byzantine style with an extremely large cupola on top. The length of the building from the altar to the front door is 262 feet. The height of the cupola is 188 feet. The total floor area is covered with Turkish rugs. The design consists of elongated quadrangles that all point toward Mecca. The rugs are laid not parallel to the walls but at a small angle. The original church was built to point toward Jerusalem. After the church was changed to a mosque in 1453, the altar was moved over to point toward Mecca. The large cupola rests on many large pillars from Egypt, Balabek and Ephesus. There are 182 pillars of various sizes. Around the inside of the cupola, a row of shields are placed to represent from left to right: God, Mohammed and the subsequent prophets and caliphs. The walls of the cupola are built of marble. The walls and the floor on which the pillars rest have been covered with gold since the time of Constantine the Great in 320 A.D. On one of the walls is an impression of the hand of caliph Mohammed, which was made when the church was taken over. There is a special place for the caliph who attends every Friday.
After we finished our visit to the St. Sophia, the guide took us to an adjoining building that was the burial place for the caliph Achmed. His five wives and 36 children are also buried here. An old handwritten Quran was also exhibited there. We were offered rose wreaths with pearls made of scented wood. Near St. Sophia is an underground excavation. We had to pay one half lyra to enter. It is a large underground room with the ceiling supported with 366 pillars. The floor is covered with water to a depth of about 1 meter. The pillars are all placed in symmetrical rows and the whole place is lit with electric lights. We stepped into a boat and let them show us everything. The water was clear and sweet and the bottom could be seen clearly. It was cool because water was dripping continually from the ceiling. It was very interesting and I do not think I will forget it. We then went back to port Karakoy to take the ferry to Haider-Pasha and the train home.
Friday, June 1, 1963
I wanted to write letters today but never got to it. Aron Rempel’s Aronka had a very bad nosebleed. It was almost impossible to stop it. Much of it ran into his mouth and from there into his stomach, so that he would vomit huge lumps of blood. We had to call a doctor, which was difficult because we could not speak either Turkish or French. In the evening, Aronka was weak and pale.
The passengers to be transported by the Red Cross have been divided into groups. Aron Rempel and Carl Rempel are in the second group and will therefore probably have to go another way. Toews was fortunate to get into the first group.
Saturday, June 2, 1923
Dick and I went to town today but were not able to find out anything definite. After talking to the people at a steamship company, Dick and I went to Stambul, where Dick bought some material for laundry. On the way home, Peter Janzen and I got off at the Buforcation station and stopped for a bath in the sea. The temperature of the water was excellent and we had an exceptionally good bath. Today, we had a wonderful evening. We sat in the garden and sang songs.
Monday, June 4, 1923
Yesterday was Sunday. Some of us had decided to go to Kadigeuy to have our photographs taken. However, since there was a baptism in the morning, we could not leave until the afternoon. Mrs. Agnes Rempel was baptized in the sea. At 1:30 pm, nine of us left for Kadigeuy. We had a very comfortable trip, since we had the tickets in 2nd class and could ride in roomy compartments with green upholstered seats.In Kadigeuy, we soon found the photographer and had him take a group photograph of us. On the way back, we stopped at a restaurant called “Reti” and each had a dish of ice cream. Since the train was not due for an hour, we had to sit and wait. Then we went to the Haider-Pasha station and took the train back to Ghieuz-Tepe. After we got back, we gathered in the garden of the villa and sang songs. In the evening, we had a large gathering and played games. I wrote a letter to Jacob Loewens this afternoon. Before evening, Jacob Janzen, Henry, Dick, the railroad station manager and I went for a bath in the sea. It was very enjoyable.
Tuesday, June 5, 1923
I had to go to town on business today. It was very windy. The sea was very rough and the boat was rocking and taking on water. The water was constantly running across the deck, so we had to raise our feet to keep them from getting wet. Received a letter from Evangeline and Frank today. It has now developed that we will not not be able to get our visas for the first ship. We will have to wait a month.
Ghieuz-Tepe, Saturday, June 9, 1923
I have not kept up my diary for a few days for various reasons. The main reason is that I did not have any time, even though I have no work. The Aron Rempel's left on their trip to America on Wednesday. The whole family with all their baggage left with the first morning train. Henry, Dick and I accompanied them and helped to carry their baggage. Since very few visas have been granted so far, there were only few passengers so that Aron was able to get the tickets for the ship “Washington” from the Buras Line for 60 lyra. By 2 o’clock in the afternoon all the papers were in order and we accompanied them to the harbor. However, we had to say goodbye to them there as the ship was lying at anchor and they had to take a boat to board it. Toward evening, they started their long voyage to New York. Jacob Toews also obtained his visa through the Red Cross and will leave on Monday on the “Canada”. John Frankratz also has obtained his visa and has bought his ticket. The rest of us will have to wait here until July. We hope to get our visas on about June 20th and then leave on the ship “Providence” on July 7th. On Thursday, the two Janzens, Dick and I went to Kadigeuy to pick up photographs taken on Sunday. The quality and work was very bad, which is too bad. We walked home and took a little side trip to take a swim in the sea. Peter Dock will start his trip to America tomorrow. Since they are going via France they will leave here on Tuesday on a French ship. Since Kate and Abram belong to this group, we had a great happy farewell last evening. We have made a short pause in our English lessons until the Dicks leave. Now we will continue our daily lessons with Jacob Janzen. Since the Aron Rempel's left, Dick and I moved into their quarters to get away from all the bedbugs. Henry Dirks also sleeps here.
Monday, June 11, 1923
Today, it is exactly six months since we started our trip to America from Halbstadt. While our brothers and sister have arrived there a long time ago, we hope that we also will someday reach our goal. Yesterday and again today, Dick and I accompanied the Jacob Toews family to town and helped them carry their baggage. Toewses were fortunate to get all of their papers and left Constantinople today on the “Canada”. Johann Pankratz and Jacob Koop were not permitted to leave because the ship doctor declared them to be sick. The “Canada” was the last steamer to leave Constantinople in June, so that only the Aron Rempels and the Jacob Toewses were able to leave so far. We have had windy weather for a week, so that the voyage will probably be rough. Carl Rempels and we boys have moved into the quarters evacuated by the Toewses. The Carl Rempels have the larger room and we the smaller. We are much more comfortable here. After we finished moving this afternoon, I went for an English lesson with Jacob Janzen. We will start to have our lessons regularly again, which we have neglected lately.
Friday, June 15, 1923
Have not been very punctual in keeping up my diary. The days pass without much happening so that there is not much to write. I have been doing a lot of reading and studying English every day. The day before yesterday I sent off a letter to Reedley. Yesterday was a great Turkish holiday and we watched several processions walking through the streets. First come the musicians: the first one is a man with a drum who beats it as loud as possible without any rhythm, then comes a man with the flute who is able to provoke the most terrible monotonous music. We have heard this combination so often now that it seems to belong together, except that each one makes his own music. On both sides of the musicians march men carrying Turkish flags. Then comes the procession consisting of long wagons drawn by oxen and buffaloes, which are decorated with garlands, flowers and fans. The horns of the oxen pulling the first wagon were silvered and shone in the sunlight. The first wagons were packed with women and the others with men. This is the first day of vacation for the school children. The sound of the train of wagons rode young and older men on donkeys with the tassel on their fazes dancing happily through the air. The procession ended with some wagons drawn by horses and mules and several policemen on horseback.
The holidays of the Turks begin at sunset, so that we often have been awakened by loud drum beats from mosques and streets during the night. Since the Bairain holidays last for 30 days, this has been a real nuisance for us.
We have some really nice weather now. It is not as windy as it was before the rain. This afternoon, a group of nine men went for a swim in the sea. We enjoyed it very much.
Ghieuz-Tepe, June 18, 1923
Have been staying home the last few days and have been using most of the time studying English. Jacob Janzen and I are using the second volume of Berlitz School and have made a great deal of progress. Every day just before evening, we go for a swim in the sea of Marmara. We have found a wonderful place with a wharf. The water at the end of the wharf is deep enough that we can dive. We enjoy it very much. Dick went to town and bought me a pair of bathing trunks. Yesterday was Sunday. In the afternoon, we played soccer with a group of Turkish students but it was not interesting because they were so much better.
Sunday, June 24, 1923
Our group of Mennonites here is getting smaller and smaller. Yesterday, another six departedL the Peter Dick family of five and Johann Pankratz. They are traveling on a French ship to Marseille, by train to Paris and Cherbourg, and then by ocean liner to New York. Besides that there are eight families who have obtained their visas through the Red Cross, will be leaving Constantinople on the “Madonna”m which will depart in the beginning of July. The rest of us will probably not get our visas until late in July, leave here in August and arrive in New York in September, unless we should be fortunate enough to get our visas before July 1st because between July 1st and July 14th the consul will grant visas to other nationalities (not Russian). P. Janzen sent a telegram to Mr. O.O. Miller a few days ago asked him to help us to get our visas before July 1st.
On Thursday, we received a letter from Evangeline and Frank with the sad news that uncle William Neufeld is deathly ill and had to go through an operation. Margaret (cousin) also had to have an operation on her ear. Evangeline writes that they will send us the travel money on time, but none has come in so far. If we should be fortunate enough to get our visas, we probably could not leave on account of the lack of money. All the other Mennonites in our group have been taken care of by Mr. O.O. of the Central Committee. I also have been expecting to receive travel money in this manner, however, our former representative, A. Froese, who has been more of a hindrance than help, telling Mr. Miller that I would be supplied with travel money by the Neufelds. That accounts for the fact that Mr. Miller states that everyone is provided for. I believe that the money from the Neufelds will be coming soon and expect it on Tuesday. Yesterday, I undertook to free our quarters from bedbugs. I removed everything from the room and sprayed all the cracks, crevices and corners with kerosene. It helped tremendously and I had an excellent sleep on my bunk. Pankratz left me his feather quilt, which I am using for a mattress. We can keep our quarters until July 1st. After that we will have to find new accommodations.
Ghieuz-Tepe, Friday, June 29, 1923
I went to town yesterday to send a telegram to Reedley to find out when they would send the $500 dollars. I had to know immediately, because I have to know whether I can loan Carl some money. Carl received his visa from the American Consulate yesterday. He can get his ship fare tickets for 50 dollars through the Red Cross and will leave with all the others, who obtained their visas through the Red Cross on July 6th on the “Constantinople”. Carl and Agatha will move to a hotel in the city on Monday. We also will have to move because our rent runs out.on July 1st. After sending my telegram yesterday, which cost 7.1 lyra, I had lunch and made some other purchases.
In the afternoon, Peter Janzen, Jacob Janzen, Peter Bergen and I went to Stambul sightseeing. On the way to the Grand Bazar not far from the Galata Bridge is the large Mosque Volide. We had to take our shoes off before we could enter the interior. A man at the door provided us with large leather slippers that we had to put on our feet. The Mosque Volide is one of the largest mosques in Stambul. The many cupolas and pillars are covered with mosaics. Large candelabras are hanging from the ceiling with much glass, which is probably more for decoration than for lighting. There was a service in progress. The praying Turks are sitting on their feet with their faces directed toward Mecca and, as per command, in unison bend forward down to the floor, which is covered with straw mats and rugs. When the Turks pray, they have their hands outstretched with palms up and rock from one side to the other on their seats. In front of the door, a mullah was sitting on a bench rocking back and forth reading the Koran. He also had a box full of wreaths made of roses, which he was selling. On both sides of the door were water faucets, where the Turks in their colorful clothes and turbans were washing their feet. Such water faucets and troughs can be found at practically all mosques. Each mosque also has burial plaques for various sultans. We visited the one at Mosque Volide. In one room stood many green coffin-like boxes covered with white sheets. There were several sultans: Mohammed III, IV, V, Mustapha, Hasson and their families buried here. The coffin boxes for the children were only about a meter long. The ones holding male bodies had crown-like knots on the head end. Each box had a railing around it. The walls of the room were covered with mosaics and inscriptions from the Koran.
After observing all this, we went to the St. Sophia, which is the most famous of all the mosques, which I visited and described once before. After receiving permission, we entered without a guide because they demanded a high fee. We had to pull leather slippers over our shoes. We took our time and looked at everything very thoroughly. I did not write down anything because I had done it before. What I did not notice before was a finger-size hole in one of the pillars. When one puts a finger into the hole, one gets the impression that the finger is wet but the finger is quite dry when removed. The saying goes that Mohammed put his finger into the hole and cooled his brow during the battle. The interior is only sparsely lit through the small windows in the cupola, which creates a reverent atmosphere. It is very quiet since the heavy carpets absorb all the sounds of footsteps. We have been told that images of Jesus and of angels from the Greek period still appear in the mosaic on the wall but we could not see anything. After spending maybe an hour here we proceeded further. The large door opposite the altar must be made completely of metal. I had to use all my strength to move it just a little. We then proceeded to the underground castle under the St. Sophia. Since Peter Janzen and I had been there before and since it costs a considerable amount of money, only Peter Bergen and Jacob Janzen took the tour down and we remained above ground.
The underground palace is called “Palais Yerebatan” and has an alleged 10 km tunnel leading to an old mosque “Kerlin” and another to the Aj-Sophia, however, these are now sealed by a brick wall. After J. Janzen and P. Bergen had finished their tour, we all went to the mosque “Ahmed”, which is probably the most beautiful and newest of all the mosques, but not as reverent as the Aj-Sophia because it is so well lit with many large windows. The floor is covered only with straw mats. The cupola in the middle, which challenges the one at the Aj-Sohia, is supported by four large pillars with a diameter of about 30 feet. One of the pillars has a water outlet and a basin from which holy water flows. The altar faces Mecca and on the wall next to it hangs a picture of the Kaaba in Mecca. Several mullahs were sitting around and reading the Koran. Six minarets are built around the Mosque Ahmed. Two of these are probably the tallest in Stambul. One of the guards permitted us to climb one of them for a small fee. We climbed up a long spiral staircase, which was only lit by an occasional hole in the wall. We finally reached a door, which led to a small peripheral balcony. We thought that we had reached the top but this was only the first of three circular balconies. After resting for a while, we kept on climbing toward the top. There were oil lamps hanging along the outer wall and the steep stairway was so oily and slippery that it was almost impossible to climb them. We finally arrived at the top safely but with oil spots on our white clothes. The circular balcony was about a meter wide all the way around and had a high railing. Above us was the top of the minaret with the half moon. We had a very beautiful view of all of Constantinople and vicinity. Particularly visible was the Bosphorus, the Golden Horn with the large Galata Bridge and the harbor where many ships were anchored and also moving in and out. Also all the portions of Constantinople such as Stambul, Galat, Pera, etc. One can also see beyond the city into Europe. On the Asian coast, we could see many places, with which we were now familiar such as Haider-Pasha, Kidiguez, Skurari, Ghieuz-Tepe, Norly-Chiflik, and beyond that the Marmara Sea, where we could distinguish the Prince Islands in a thin fog. Particularly interesting was the movement of the ships on the water and the trains on the land. The minaret, which we climbed, is supposed to be 175 feet high. Below us we could see the streets with many people, wagons, automobiles, streetcars, etc. It was a beautiful picture. To the northwest was the Mosque Aj-Sophia with its four minarets surrounded with trees. Everything appears to be more beautiful seen from above. To the northeast below us is a huge stadium (Epidrom) used for running and other competitive sports. We saw bicycle races and soccer being played. To the southeast toward Asia Minor lies the old portion of Stambul with many broken walls and buildings. The railway station for the European terminal is in this area. On the fourth side toward the southwest is a boulevard bordered by roses. This was the way we came in. There are two tall square monuments. One of them appears to be made of one piece. It contains sculptures of birds, animals, snakes, turtles, etc. The minaret we had climbed was one of the tallest. The dome of the mosque was right below us. We could hardly get enough of all the things to see, but we had to hurry back to the harbor so that we would not miss our ship. We walked real fast and arrived at the harbor only a few minutes before departure time. After we arrived home, I had my supper and then the two Janzens, Mr. Azarian, the manager of the railroad station, an Armenian who speaks English as well as German, and I went to the Mara Sea for a swim. We had a wonderful bath by the light of a clear and bright full moon, which left a wide silvery streak on the surface of the sea. It was so bright that we could see the bottom, the rocks and the sea plants. We could also see ships traveling to and fro.
Ghieuz-Tepe, Tuesday, July 3, 1923
For the last three days, Dick and I have lived in a room at the Mennonite Home, where Peter Janzen stayed. He and Jacob Janzen have a room next to ours. We now have two bedsteads, benches, etc. from the Carl Rempels. Yesterday afternoon, Dick and I accompanied Carl and Agatha to the city where they rented a room at the “Olympia” hotel in the Galata. I took the baggage to them today. Early this morning, I went with Mr. Stadel, who had to deliver the milk from the monastery dairy in the city to Kadikoey. From there I took a local ferry to Kasakeny where Carl was waiting for me. After breakfast, I went to Stambul to buy some shoe leather. This afternoon, Dick, Henry, Reimer and I worked for Mr. Stadel. We have undertaken to chop some wood and will work for several days. Have not had a reply to my telegram, nor a letter.
Sunday, July 8, 1923
Today it has been exactly three months since we arrived here in Constantinople. We were not expecting to stay here this long, but it turns out that we made our plans without consulting the Master. Since Tuesday, Dick, Henry, Reimer and I have been chopping wood at the monastery operation and will have more work for tomorrow and the next day. Today, I and many others of our group went to town because this was the day when a large portion of our group departed on the ship, “Constantinople” of the Byron line. We went with them and wished them farewell. The following people left today: Carl and Agatha Rempel, A. Stadel with wife and child, Abram Froese and wife, Johann Willms and family, Jacob Koop and wife, Ekkert and wife, Heinrichs and wife, Johann Dick and finally, Adolf and Otto Bickle. Before the farewell, we had a 5 minute photograph taken. The passengers were permitted to board the ship at 11 o’clock. The “Constantinople” is a large ocean liner with a displacement of nearly 25,000 tons and cruises at 18 nautical miles per hour. This ship was sitting next to the wharf and I stepped off the length. It was 240 long steps, so that the length is about 720 feet. Since this ship stops at many harbors, it will not reach New York until August 1st.
After we had lunch at the “Sirene'' restaurant, a group of 10 men went to see the sights of Stambul. We went first to the St. Sophia mosque. Since I have been here twice before and made descriptions in my diary, I will record only anything new I may observe. The carpets on the floor of the mosque are Turkish and are 100 years old. The veins in the marble are so numerous that a person with a little imagination can make out devil's heads with horns. The four large images of angels that were placed in the inner dome at the the time this church was built by Justonian can hardly be made out, because the faces were covered with golden stars when the church was changed to a mosque. The eight large red pillars, which are two in each of the four corners are Balabek, which was brought here from Syria. The large door at the entrance is very heavy. Above the door is a coffin with two holes in it. According to a legend, snakes entered the coffin of the wife of king Julian and devoured the body. From the mosque, we went to the war museum. There was much to see so that it cannot all be described. There were all kinds of weapons: guns, swords, bayonets, sabres, knives, hatchets, shields, helmets, uniforms, and armor for men and horses. On the third floor were many life-like wax figures of sultans and kings with their guards and courts. We heard a strange sounding music made by the museum attendants. We were going to climb a minaret, but it was getting late and we had to go home.
Ghieuz-Tepe, Tuesday, July 10, 1923
I have been working on the wood chopping job yesterday and today. We will not finish the work until tomorrow. We are getting up early because that is the best time to work. At 7 am, we take an hour off for breakfast. We take another rest period during the hot afternoon and then we work from 3 pm until sunset. When I looked through some American newspapers today, I found a notice that our uncle William Neufeld had died on June 7th. This was a sad message for us and a whole month has passed since. Since today is the day for American mail, I am expecting to receive a letter from Reedley. Peter Janzen actually brought me a letter from town today, which confirmed the sad news. Evangeline also writes that the Neufelds could not send me my money, so that I will have to contact Mr. O.O. Miller. I received my visa number on May 24th.
Monday, July 16, 1923
My friend Jacob Janzen and I took a long sightseeing walk today. Our goal was to see the cemeteries of Skutari. After a good sleep and breakfast, we started from Ghieuz-Tepe at 8 am. On the way, we did not see anything exceptionally interesting. The whole area is more or less populated. In the more densely populated areas were some stores and marketplaces. We also passed a working factory, which we had noticed before, but since the gate watchman did not understand us, we could not get in. When we approached Skutari, there was a water well along the way under some tall trees. Water was flowing continuously from a faucet in a brick wall that was covered with golden Turkish letters. Beyond the well started the forest of Skuteri. It is very large and covers a territory of about 125 acres. The “trees of life” are very tall with narrow trunks that appear to be highly polished.The whole forest is a cemetery. It is hard to find an area that is not covered with large and small gravestones. Many of the monuments have inscriptions. The gold inscriptions on white marble looked very beautiful. The gravestones are all very different. Wherever a man is buried, there is a head on top of the stone. Gravestones for women are either flat or cone to a point on top. The trees are not close together and since they are narrow in shape, they produce very little shade. There is no lawn and the ground is covered with thistles so that one has to remain on the paths. The farther we went the more interesting it became. There were not any thistles any more and well kept pathways were leading around 5 to 20 gravestones. Some of them were on top of the brick wall pedestals. In the center of the cemetery are several coffee houses and restaurants where visitors can refresh themselves. From there we proceeded to Skutari. On one of the boulevards was an artificial pond with a bridge across it, in which many small fish were swimming. We rested on a bench in the shade from where we could look over the city of Skutari. We probably could see only a small part of it. As all the other Turkish towns, it has narrow crooked streets and wooden houses. Then we went to the harbor, where there was more activity, such as automobiles, ships, etc. We had planned to take a local ferry to Kadikoey but they all went to Stambul. Therefore, we rented a small boat, which we could do very cheaply for one half lyra. We traveled for quite a distance along the Bosphorus and observed the beautiful shore and buildings. After one hour we took over the rowing. The water was very quiet, however, some passing ships caused our boat to rock considerably. The trip to Katogoey took about another hour. There we wanted to visit Mary and Katherine Dirks, who a few days earlier had obtained a job at a German restaurant. It was located along the shore on the other side of Kadigoey, so we had to run quite a distance to get there. While we did not know the exact location, we accidentally found it very quickly. After finding out how the girls were getting along and wishing them a Happy Birthday, since this was her birthday, we walked home.
On the way we passed a resort called Fanaraki, which is known for its good bath areas. Many English people had set up their summer tents here. Several English soldiers were diving from a 5 meter high bridge that was leading to the wharf, where the ships were docking. Unfortunately, we did not have our bathing trunks with us, so we could not join them. Therefore, we went to a mission school, where we could take a bath unobserved and then went home and arrived there at 5 pm.
Ghieuz-Tepe, Monday, July 23, 1923
Have not made any notes for a whole week. Nothing out of the ordinary has happened. I have started to practice English with the boys. I still have a daily lesson with Jacob Janzen. We are going for a bath in the Mara Sea every day. It is too bad that it is so far away (half hour walk). Today and tomorrow are great Turkish holidays. The city is beautifully decorated and illuminated. Unfortunately we cannot go to see it because we have no money. However, we could see the fireworks from here this evening. All the stores are closed today and tomorrow. Tomorrow is an especially important day because at 4 pm the peace treaty is to be signed at Lausanne.
Several days ago I started to have my teeth repaired, but since I have no money and cannot borrow any, this will have to wait. The day before yesterday and yesterday we have had some rain so that it is not quite as hot and the dust has settled down. The Turks are threshing their grain with threshing stones drawn by oxen or donkeys.
Tuesday, August 7, 1923
It seems that my diary does not interest me very much so that I am neglecting to write anything down. By leafing through it, I find that I have written less and less often. Actually very little is happening and since I am usually busy, I have been staying at home. Early this morning, I rode with Roman Dmitrevitch, the manager of the monastery estate to Kadikoey and took several things, which the parents sent the Dirks girls, who are working for a German pension institution. We were riding on a board wagon and were pretty well shaken down when we returned at 9 am. I then had an English lesson with the boys. After that I copied a letter that Mr. H. Schroeder had received it from our uncle David Dirks in Sumatra about two years ago. These copies are to be sent to Russia, which I will do. I have not been feeling well for the last few days: my tongue is covered, etc. I hope that I will not get a fever. Yesterday, I told stories from “1001 Nights” to the children. The ship “Washington'' left for New York today with two families from our group: Birkle and Kroeker. It was to leave quite some time ago but was held up until today. On Sunday, the day before yesterday, Dick and I went to town and said “goodbye” to those departing.
Sunday, August 12, 1923
It is getting toward evening. I am sitting on the ground in a vineyard, where Dick obtained a job as a guard for a month several days ago. I am here to relieve him so that he can visit with his friends and drink some cocoa, which we prepared for him. Today was an uneventful Sunday. We did not get up early, had our breakfast and Sunday service and by that time it was noon. Early in the afternoon, we heard that Ismed-Pasha would be passing and hurried to the railroad station. Ismed-Pasha was able to get a peace treaty in Lausanne, which is very favorable for Turkey. He arrived in Constantinople two days ago and received a very festive reception. He is going to Angora today, which is the present capital of Turkey. The train was beautifully decorated, but unfortunately we missed him.
All the warships, of which at time, there were 10 opposite our bathing area, are all gone now. The evacuation began immediately after the signing of the peace treaty in Lausanne on July 24th. This afternoon, I went to Kadkoey with the Dirks who had some photographs taken of themselves and their daughter.
Ghieuz-Tepe, Tuesday, August 14, 1923
Working in the monastery garden and having enough work for several more days. It consists of turning over soil with a spade and to irrigate vegetables. There are several guests at the estate now who are taken to a bath practically every day and served lavishly.
The W. Rahn family left on the ship “Braga” the day before yesterday. We are scheduled to leave here on Sept. 8th and then leave Cherbourg on the “Mauritania” on Sept. 29th.
Saturday, August 18, 1923
I worked all last week for the nuns and earned 5.5 lyra. I could not work this afternoon because I had an appointment with the dentist. He put on a gold crown and pulled a stump that could not be saved. Now all my teeth are in good condition and the total cost is only 24.5 lyra: three gold crowns, one filling and one tooth pulled. In the evening, Jacob Janzen and I went for a bath in the sea and enjoyed it very much. After supper we played soccer and perspired so much that we had to take a shower. We have to pay special attention to our cleanliness because a physician from the Cunard Line, with whom we made contact last week, will come tomorrow to check our health status. We hope that all of us will pass the inspection. According to our contract with the Cunard Line, we will leave on Sept. 1st and arrive in New York on Sept. 21st. Our route is through Marseille, Paris and Cherbourg. We were able to get our tickets for 70 dollars each. The consul has promised that all of our visas will be ready by Sept. 1st.
Monday, August 20, 1923
Last night, Dick pleaded with me to take his job as a guard in a vineyard for Mr. Schroeder for a few days. I agreed and he accompanied me to the vineyard last night. I slept quite well in his place under a walnut tree in the middle of the vineyard. After I had my breakfast, which consisted of grapes and a piece of bread, I read a book on Constantinople by Baedeker. During the first half of the day, it was cloudy and the wind blew very strong. While the sea was quiet in the morning it became very turbulent and very dark with white caps. After I had my lunch, which was brought to me, it began to rain. Dick came to see whether I needed anything, so we took our things into a small shed. It rained very hard for several hours and we sat in the shed and painted our future in America as well as we could. After Dick left, I took a small nap. When I woke up, the rain had stopped and the sea was shining again. Now the supper is ready to set. Before me is a beautiful picture of the vineyard surrounded by a 6 foot high stone wall. The distance from the vineyard to the sea is about 300 meters, and is open space. On the shore is the Mission School of the MacNotten’s. The Mennonites had previously built a cobblestone road to it. The sea is quiet again and looks very bright toward the sunset, so that the sailboats with wet sails and the local ferries look very dark against the bright background. Farther out are the Prince Islands. From West to East, the first small island is “Oxin”, an uninhabited rocky island, where in 1920 countless unwanted dogs were left to die because Mohammadians are not permitted to kill them. The second small island is “Plati”, which is not as high and has a palace built on it. Then comes four large islands, which are Proti, Antigone, Chalky and Prinkipo, with a total population of 16,000 inhabitants.
There are three small rocky islands scattered around the large ones: Pita, Anterowithos and Mandros. The ships coming from the islands load at the following mainland harbors: Pendik, Maltepe, Bostondjik, Penaraki, Moton and Kadikoy.
Ghieuz-Tepe, Tuesday, August 21, 1923
Have been guarding the vineyard all day. The weather is very good today. I only had a small shower at noon. I can hardly get enough of this beautiful landscape. The sea is very busy with ships today and this morning there were several hydroplanes flying around.
If everything goes well, we will be in New York a month from now. We are to leave here on Sept. 1st and arrive in Cherbourg after five days passing through Marseille and Paris. We are to leave Cherbourg on the “Berengaria” on Sept. 15th and arrive in New York on Sept. 21st. Have read Baedeker’s book on Constantinople today and would like to see many more places here before we leave. However, money is so scarce that this probably will not be possible.
Thursday, August 23, 1923
I have been guarding the vineyard until this morning. When I woke up, I found that the rats had stolen my bread, so that I had to be satisfied with grapes for breakfast. At 8 o’clock, I was replaced and went home. I took the third train to town. Most of them had taken the second train. Twelve men from our group went to a tailor and ordered blue serge suits to be made for us at a cost of 30 lyra each. Dick also bought a suitcase for the journey.
At 3 pm, Jacob Janzen, Henry Rempel and I took a trip to Skutari. We were planning to visit two places. The first was to observe the healing dervishes, who perform only on Thursdays 2 to 4 hours before sunset (after noon?), and the second was to climb the Tschomlydena or Berfurlu mountaintop. After some searching in Skutari, we found the Rufai Tekke mosque, where the dervishes go through their ceremony. The performance was conducted on a large carpet in the middle of a large room. We were sitting on a balcony around their partners shoulders and a moolah was standing in front of them. They were dressed in white and in yellow robes and turbans according to rank. They rocked from one foot to the other in double beat rhythm and howled through their throats with all their might as loud as they could. It sounded horrible.Once in a while, the dervishes barked like dogs. The performance took a long time, so the poor people perspired profusely. A small boy worked himself into such a frenzy that he beat his forehead against the floor until it was swollen and he collapsed, almost losing consciousness. A young man was swirling around himself for at least 15 minutes. I cannot understand how he did not become dizzy and fall. Once in a while, the dervishes formed a circle around the mullah and danced and sang songs. After each song, the howling was resumed. Finally they all sat down on the floor and prayed. The names of Allah and Mohammed were often called out.
After watching this performance, we all went to Burguslukoi, which is at the foot of Tschamlidscha. We first passed the large cemetery that I have described before. The trees are cypress and one is planted at each funeral. We then passed an Armenian graveyard, which looked similar to ours.
At the top of the mountain, we could see many places: Halder-Pasha, Kordikey, Toprok, Ghieuz-Tepe, Brinkey to the south-east, The farther to the side Maltepe and beyond all the is the Marmara Sea with it nine islands. To the east, we can see the mountainous Asia Minor. To the left of Kaltepe, the settlement Narly[Tachifflik with the sea breaking on the rocky shore. Then the high dome-shaped mountain at the foot of which the famous well water is located. From which water is distributed to the city and the islands. To the left all the land was covered with bushes and trees. At our feet to the north lies the Bosphorus with its densely populated shore and Tschamlidscha with ships traveling to and fro, which we can observe as far as Blyukdere and Anatoloia Kawak. Finally, to the west lies Constantinople, which looks small in the distance. At first the bright sunshine hindered us from seeing this area clearly due to the glare and we waited until the sun set beyond the European flatlands just like at home in our original country. After the sun had set, we started our way home through Kurgurlukoi to Ghieuz-Tepe. The last five km was downhill, which made it very enjoyable since the moon was shining bright.
Gieuz-Tepe, Friday, August 24, 1923
I went into town again today. Jacob Janzen, Theophil and I went to the consulate, where we each paid ten dollars for our visas. We were served immediately, while the Russians had to wait. We will get our visas on Monday, August 27th. After Jacob Janzen and I had lunch at the “Sirene”, we went to the new bridge and took a ship all the way to Ejoub at the end of the Golden Horn. The local ferry stopped about ten times so that it took about one hour, however, our tickets only cost 7 piastres. After we passed the 0ld bridge, we saw a large white building on the right side, which was the Marine Ministerium. It has barracks, wharfs, etc. and a warship is anchored there. On the left side of the Golden Horn, the Stambul side, we passed several large mosques, such as Suleiman, Suliz, Dschomie, Kerfie and others. We also saw a portion of the high north portion of the city wall near EcripJapu. Since today is Friday, we saw many Turks in Ejoub because the Ejoub Dschomie mosque is considered the most holy place. Until recently, only Turks were permitted to visit it. The Dschomi is built of white marble and is very attractive. Particularly impressive is the remarkable cleanliness. In front of the entrance stand two mighty statues surrounded by domes and a highbar fence. Opposite the entrance to the Dschomi Mosque is a golden screen, behind which the sword of Mohammed II of Esoberrers is guarded. Each new sultan is protected by girdling this sword in a ceremony. The passage to the sword is even now not permitted to Europeans. Since the mosque is built with white marble, the domes, the pillars and the floors are all white and very clean. The walls are decorated with beautiful brown mosaics. A service was being conducted. A sheik was sitting behind a small table and gave a sermon to a group of Turks seated on a carpet. The women were sitting behind a curtain.
After a one hour return trip to the new bridge, Jacob Janzen went home and I went to the tailor to try on my new suit. Dick and all the others from yesterday were also there. We left Stambul at 5 pm and arrived home in Ghieuz-Tepe at 6 pm
Tuesday, August 28, 1923
The last four days have been very eventful. On Saturday, Peter Janzen brought us the bad news that the Cunard Line had received a telegram not to accept any passengers until November. To us, this appeared to be a black line through our account sheet. The situation was particularly bad because the November quota was already filled, so that we would have to wait another year here. We all agreed to go to Canada. I wrote a letter to America yesterday describing our terrible situation. Yesterday, the situation changed again. TThe Cunard Line received permission to accept passengers and the plans remained as before.
I went to town yesterday to get my visa but it was not ready. In our free time, we visited the Seraskerat and adjoining Bojasid mosque. We liked it very much. The floors are covered with large red carpets. The mosque has a large front yard surrounded by rows of pillars, which have domes on them. We climbed the Berasker tower (Tour de Stambul), which has 255 steps to the top. From there, we had a wonderful view of Stambul and its surroundings.
We had to go back to town today. Before noon, we all received our American visas. Peter Janzen took them to the steamship line office and then to the French consul to obtain our French transit visas. In the afternoon, we all went to the Near East Relief to check out our money. There are two letters for us. One from Frank and one from Mr. O.O. Miller. The money had not arrived yet. However, the Near East Relief paid it out today. This is a great joy and relief for us because we are not in a trap anymore. The letter from Frank was very good. Hopefully, we will be in New York a month from now and at our respective destinations soon after that. From the Near East Relief, I went to climb the Galata tower. I went home at 6 pm. We now feel quite at home on the Anatolian railroad and in Ghieuz-Tepe, and will probably long remember it in our later lives.
Constantinople, Friday, the morning of August 31, 1923
The steamship company received a reply to their telegram yesterday stating that the U.S. entry numbers for Oct. 1st had been secured for all of us. However, since the English and French troops were being evacuated, all cabins were taken and we had to be satisfied with steerage accommodations. Dick, Reimer, Willms and I packed our things yesterday to spend the night in the city. We left Ghieux-Tape with the 5 o'clock train. We have really learned to enjoy the Anatolian railroad, so we are sorry to say goodbye to it. When we boarded the ferry at Haider-Pasha, we probably took our last step on Asian soil, possibly in our whole life.
When we passed Serai, our last “Pierre Loti” had already arrived and stood in the harbor. A fully packed ship was pulling into the harbor with a lot of wild music. There were many ships and the traffic was so dense that we could hardly get through. The city is particularly busy at 6 pm. When we got to the city, we rented a room at the “Parthenon”. And so we spent our first and our last night in Constantinople in this hotel. Reimer and I took the subway to the Pera, where he wanted to pick up some photographs. On the way back, we stopped at the “Steps”, where I had to make some purchases. Our room was very nice with clean linen on the beds. We slept perfectly because there were no mosquitoes or bed bugs.
There are a number of things to attend to today. We are to board the ship at 4 pm tomorrow
Constantinople, Hotel Parthenon, Galata, Saturday, Sept. 1, 1923
It is already evening and we are still in Constantinople. We had been scheduled to be far at sea at this time. Yesterday, before noon it was announced that all of the "Pierre Loti '' would be filled by the French so that not even steerage was available. We were again in a bad situation which by now, however, has changed for the batter. The Cunard Line will send us to Marseille on the “Madonna” of the Fabre Line. If everything goes as planned, we will board it at 8:30 am and leave that evening. The voyage to Marseille will require 7 days. We will have 60 beds available on the “Madonna”, so that everything seems to have worked out satisfactorily. Yesterday afternoon, I went to the Near East Relief to pick up our mail. The mail from Batum had arrived and there were two letters from the Neufelds in America. One of these contained our affidavits, so that Dick and I now have seven each. Dick and I had our photographs taken yesterday, which came out very well.
Yesterday, I had a great desire to take a trip on the Bosphorus, but since no one wanted to go along and since it was getting late, I put the Baedeker guide in my pocket and went to Stambul. I turned right at the “Eurim Onue” place and came into a narrow old part of the city. This area consists of ruins in which many Turks live. There are no streets, but only footpaths. After a quarter hour, I came to the large Suleimane Dschami mosque. It takes up a large area consisting of a front yard, the mosque, and many burial places stretching in a row from the northwest to the southeast. On one side of the mosque is the Seraskerat with the St. Tour and on the opposite side the Sheik Il Islame, which from above looks like a large flat area on which was nailed shut with boards and was not accessible, stood a wall. On the four corners stood high minarets each one with three balustrades. The interior of the mosque is dark.This is the largest and most beautiful building built by the Turks in 1500. The dome is supposed to be higher than that of the Aj_Sophia Dschami. The arrangement of the room in the interior is very symmetrical and tasteful. The middle section rests on four large pillars. The wall behind the altar is particularly beautiful. The side wings are also very roomy and sit on two large round pillars. The wall behind the altar is laid in Syance tile and the large windows have colored glass. Two windows were built at the time of the war with the Persians and the other under Turkish occupation.
After that, I went to the Seraskerat, but the guard would not let me through to the street where I could get a streetcar. I then went back in the direction of the Aj-Sopiai mosque, and first came to the Bajased Scchami (dove mosque) and another to the burned pillars of 8 forums built by Constantin in about 300 A.D. This is the original center of Constantinople. It has been repaired many times since. Each forum is fortified with iron bands. Farther to the right, I came to the cistern of the 1001 pillars (Bib Bir Direk). This well has been dry for the last 100 years. The entrance was fenced off, but I could look through 9 holes in the fences. Unfortunately, it was dark inside and I could not make out very much.
Soon after that, I came to the Hippodrome. Since today is Friday, the street was full of people. At all the coffee houses, I saw the Turks drinking their Turkish coffee and smoking through their water pipes.A very interesting picture.The Hippodrome was full of people. First I saw the Kaiser Wilhelm well, which was built in honor of the Kaiser Wilhelm visit to Constantinople in 1898. It consists of a dome sitting on 8 highly polished black pillars, between which 7 basins with faucets are located. The next is the Obelisk of Theodosius (380). It has a height of 30 meters and a width of 2 meters. The four sides are covered with hieroglyphics and pictures. According to the inscriptions, it was built in 2500 B.C. by Tuthmosis IV in On (Heliopolis, the Egyptian capital. Julian brought it to Constantinople and Theodosius set it up. At the bottom are pictures of the lives of the pharaohs, such as humbling of defeated enemies, distribution of laurel wreaths, etc. The third monument is the “kolop”, which is 30 meters high and built of stones. The whole area of the Hippodrome is covered with gravel paths bordered by rose bushes and is surrounded by an iron fence.
From there, I crossed the bridge to the Galata. The city was well lit and very full of people, particularly the bridge. In the evening Dick, Reimer and I went to a cinema in the Pera area and rode home in an automobile, the first time in many years. Since the streets were empty, we went very fast. We like it very much. We have to be at the Serai in Stambul at 2:20 pm to board the ship. I bought a Turkish fez for Dick and myself today. We want to use them on our trip because the hats can easily be blown off by the wind.
Sunday, Sept. 2, 1923 on the ship “Madonna” on the Marmara Sea
Today was a very eventful day for us. We have left Constantinople and are getting closer and closer to our destination. But we are all in low spirits because we have had some sad experiences today. When the first ferry arrived from Haider-Pasha, all Mennonites were on it except Peter Janzen. He had returned to Gieuz-Tepe. He had left his briefcase on the train and was trying to recover it. Dick and I went to the Pera to pick up some photographs and then back to the ship. Peter Janzen returned very sad because his briefcase with one thousand dollars of widow Becker was either lost or stolen. First they did not want to let her board the ship, but the director of the Cunard Lines decided to take her along, since she had obtained all the necessary papers. We left Constantinople at 4:30 pm. Dick and I obtained a cabin with Peter Janzen.
Monday, Sept. 3, 1923 on the Aegean Sea
We are now traveling in a southwesterly direction through the Sporades islands at a speed of 17 nautical miles per hour. When we woke up this morning, we were already traveling in a southerly direction and were on the open sea. Only on the left side could we make out the island of Mytilini in the fog. We passed through the Dardanelles Straits at 1:30 am this morning, so we unfortunately did not see it, because we were fast asleep.At 10 o’clock, our ship passed between two islands about 20 km apart. First we passed the small island Psara to our right and then the large island Chios to our left. South of Chios lie a group of islands called the Southern Sporades, which we will be passing next. At 2 pm, we came to a large island called Nikaria. Our ship passed very close to the southwest tip of the island. All these islands consist of limestone, so that it is difficult to cultivate crops on them. The inhabitants are almost exclusively Greeks and their main occupation is raising livestock and fishing. Crops can only be grown by terrace culture. Therefore, they have a very low standard of living. One of the more profitable occupations is the harvesting of sponges. In that area, the islands are more densely populated. So, for example, Nikaria has a population of 15,000 and Chios has 75,000. Until recently, all these islands were united and independent. The Young Turk government of Turkey is now trying to take them over. After the Balkan War and the Tripoli battle, these islands were taken over by Italy, which still occupies them. At 4 pm, we passed the island of Patinos (formerly Patmos), which was about 20 km to our left. This is the island to which St. John was banished in the year 95 A.D. and where he wrote the book of Revelation.
A little farther south, we saw the islands Leros and Kalymnos to our left. At 7 o’clock, we came very near the island Kos. After that we passed the islands Nisyros and Tilos on our left and are now opposite the island Kholkie. We will soon be at the large island Rhodes and then enter the Levantine Sea. We have not traveled about 800 km and I estimate that we will reach our first stop in Beirut at about 8 am the day after tomorrow. A little while back we met and passed the steamer “Canada” that was greeted by the “Madonna” with much signaling and whistle blowing. The water in this part of the Mediterranean has a peculiar blue color. Now that it is dark,we can see the bright luminescence in the wake of the ship. It is time to go to bed now. We paid 20 dollars for two beds in our cabin today. We will sleep superbly. We also received our meal card today. More tomorrow.
Remarks: Between 1291 and 1540 A.D these islands were administered by the Order of Johannisters, which was established in Jerusalem by the Crusaders. In 154, the islands were taken over by Osmanli and the Order moved to Malta. The islands still show much evidence of the Rhodesian Knights.
Tuesday, Sept. 4, 1923 on the ship “Madonna”
On the Levantine Sea. After we passed Rhodes, the last of the Sporades islands, we had entered the Mediterranean. Rhodes, Korpathos and Crete form a chain of islands that separate the Aegean Sea from the Mediterranean. We have not seen any land all day today. The eastern portion of the Mediterranean, where we are now, is called the Levantine Sea. We thought that we would pass the island of Cyprus today but we are traveling so far south that we cannot see it. Cyprus is a large island. They even have railroads. The capital, Nicosia, is built symmetrically and the city wall has four corners.
We are enjoying our voyage very much. The food is excellent. Mrs. Becker’s passport and visa have been found. When our passports were distributed today, hers was among them. It is terribly hot and we can hardly stand it. We met three sailboats today.
Wednesday, Sept. 5, 1923
When I woke up this morning our ship was sitting at anchor at Jaffa, the port for Palestine. Due to the heat, we could hardly sleep during the night. Even now, it is so hot that I am dripping wet with perspiration. Jaffa is a comparatively large city situated on the shore of the sea. The buildings are built of brick and stone. It has a railroad to Jerusalem, 70 km inland. We could see several factories and churches. To the south of the city is a white desert, called the Plains of Sephela. Camel caravans were continually coming into the city from the north and from the south. Our ship stood here for quite a while. Many empty metal drums were put into the ship and some passengers boarded. During this time, several passengers took a bath in the sea by jumping from the highbow of the shop into the sea. Dick was one of them. However, there was a strong current that made it very hard for him to get back to the ship. I did not care to try it, but it was difficult due to the intense heat.
At about 3 pm, we left Joffa, which formerly was called Joppa and belonged to Judea. We were heading north along the Plains of Sharon with the highlands in the background until we reached Mount Carmel, which extended quite a bit into the sea and is part of former Samaria. We passed three small harbors: Kaisariji, Tantum and Atlit. The Plains of Sharon, in contrast to the Plains of Sephela, which appeared like a desert, look very fruitful and have many trees. The mountains beyond the plain appear to be well populated. We also can see a large city toward the mountains, which we believe to be Nablus of former Samaria. Right beyond the peninsula with Mount Carmel lies the harbor city of Haifa, from which a railroad leads to Damascus. One kilometer north is the city of Akka, the seat of the Johanniter Order, which also lies on the railroad. When we passed the harbor, it was already dark and we could see only the lights of the city. A well-lit ship is passing us on the left, probably headed for Egypt and on the right is another ship going in the same direction that we are.
Until now, we have been sitting on the deck singing songs. We are now opposite the ancient city of Syrno in old Phoenicia. North of Carmel lies Galilea, which now together with Samaria and Judea form Palestine, which is now under English occupation. Syria, opposite which we are traveling now, is occupied by the French. We will probably arrive in Beirut before midnight. Since we were first headed for Joffa, this explains why we did not see the island Cyprus. We are enjoying the trip very much, but it is difficult to endure the heat. Fortunately, we are not going to Egypt. We wanted to disembark at Joffa and take a trip to Jerusalem but this request was strongly denied. Besides that, there was not enough time. We are sharing our cabin with Peter Janzen and a Jewish boy, who is going to Marseille. Since we are going north now, we should be able to tolerate the heat.
Beirut, Thursday, Sept. 6, 1923
I have had some wonderful experiences today and enjoyed it very much. When I woke up this morning, our ship was anchored at Tripoli, a Syrian port city. We passed Beirut at about midnight. Silk cocoons, bales of cotton and other goods were being loaded onto the ship. Many grapes and pomegranates were being offered for sale. The city is located on a cape, which forms a nice bay. To the left of the city is a large garden or park. Behind that lies the city at the base of a high mountain. It was a beautiful picture. Since the sea was very calm and the heat was almost unbearable, I and many other passengers descended a rope ladder and took a bath. Some of them dived down from the deck of the ship. We left Tripoli at 10:30 am and arrived in Beirut after a 3 hour trip. First we had to go around a group of small rocky islands that extend from the cape that Tripoli is built on. Then we went along the beautiful coast of Syria. Down below along the shore was a white strip of sand. Behind that were high mountains leading up to Lebanon. The side of the mountain was pretty well covered with houses and other structures. Between them were roads and many automobiles. At 2 pm, we arrived at the Beirut harbor, where several ships were anchored among them some former Russian ships. The city is very beautiful and has a European look. Palms and other trees are scattered between the buildings. The city is built on a peninsula and beyond the city is the high peak of Lebanon. The railroad station is located near the harbor and many freight and passenger trains are coming and leaving. The railroad from Beirut as well as Tripoli leads to Damascus and is connected with the railroad that leads to Baghdad, Aleppo and Jerusalem, so that Haider-Pasha in Constantinople can be reached from here. Dick and I had a good swim in the sea.
Friday, Sept. 7, 1923, On the Mediterranean
Yesterday at 7:3- pm, we left the well-lit city of Beirut and have been traveling in a westerly direction. Our next stop is Marseille, where we are to arrive on Tuesday. This morning, we saw the island of Cyprus with the Troodos mountains in the far distance to the right. A strong northwest wind started to blow before noon and is getting stronger. The waves are getting very high, but since we are heading into the wind and the ship is heavily loaded, it is not rocking too bad. However, it is strong enough for me to prefer to spend most of the afternoon and evening lying on my bed in the cabin. I wonder how it will be tomorrow.
Sunday, Sept. 9, 1923 at 11 pm on the Sardinian Sea
We have just passed the Straits of Messina, but before I describe it, I will tell you what happened yesterday. At 5 am, we came to the large island of Crete. This island is about 250 km long and we traveled along its shore until 3 pm. There was a strong northwest wind. The island Crete has some high limestone mountains that protected our ship from the strong gale. It is only sparsely built up and populated. The city Spakia is located near the west end of the island. At 9pm, we passed the end of the island with a high lighthouse tower and then we were on the open sea. The wind was so strong that the waves came onto the deck. I could not stand it very long and went to bed in our cabin and stayed there until this morning. However, the situation was not much better today, so I had to go back to my cabin to keep from vomiting. The sea quieted down a little bit toward evening. When I came on deck at 5 pm, one could see the Italian coast through the clouds and fog. We traveled along the coast for a while. It was quite a contrast from the island we had seen before. White the coast is mountainous, it is heavily populated and has many gardens, houses and other buildings.
There is a railroad track along the shore. It became dark before we came to the straits. We met a large well-lit steamer. By this time it was very dark, but soon we saw large brightly lit areas on the coast. On the right was the city of Reggio on the European mainland and on the left the city of Messina on the island of Sicily. Since these cities are built on an incline, the streets were all outlined by lights. After we went a little farther, the whole city looked like a heap of embers. It was a beautiful picture. We would have preferred to come through the straits during the day so that we could have seen the Etna volcano on the island of Sicily. I am sorry, because, as far as I know, there are no volcanoes in North America. We passed the Straits of Messina in a northwesterly direction. At one location on the mainland, we saw a larger display of fireworks. Some of the rockets were very colorful. Now we are back on the open sea. The luminescence of the sea is particularly bright tonight. If everything goes as expected, we will be in Marseille the day after tomorrow.
Marseille, Tuesday, Sept. 11, 1923
We arrived here at noon today but our ship stopped at a small island near the entry to the port. At 4 pm, our ship pulled into the harbor. We were permitted to disembark at 7 pm. An agent of the Cunard Line took charge of our baggage. We were all taken to a restaurant by tramway and are now eating our dinner. In a quarter hour at 10 pm, we will go to the railroad station and leave on a train for Paris at 11 pm.
Lyon, Wednesday, Sept. 12, 1923
After our supper last night, the Cunard Line agent took us to the station where we were assigned to a car on the Paris express. We had to spend the night sitting up because only chair seats were provided. It was impossible to sleep because the train was moving very fast and was shaking. The noise was so loud that we could not converse with one another. The train was first moving west along the coast and then turned northward. We went through several tunnels, some of them quite long. We are meeting many trains, all of them on the left side. We stopped at the following stations: Miramar, Arles, Avignon, Orange, Montélimar, Livron, Valence, Vienne, Lyon. The distance from Marseille is 350 km. We left there at 12 midnight.
Paris
We arrived here at 6 pm. We were transported from the railroad station to a hotel on omnibuses and are being served a meal. We will immediately be taken to the station and leave for Cherbourg at 8:55 pm.
Cherbourg, Thursday, Sept. 13, 1923
I have not been writing down much on this trip because I never have the time to do it. It is impossible to write on the train due to the shaking and swaying. We left Paris on the express at 9:30 pm. We had seats in a good car. It did not shake and rattle as much as the southern trip. We arrived here in Cherbourg at 6 am at the beginning of daylight. Several agents transported us from the station to the Hotel Atlantique in large automobiles. Our baggage had not arrived yet. First of all, we had to take a bath. All our clothes were stuffed into a bag to be disinfected. Since we were wearing our new suits, we paid the attendant something so that they would be spared. Then we had breakfast consisting of coffee and buttered bread at 8 o’clock. I am sorry that we had a short trip through France. We hardly saw anything of Marseille and Paris. The trip yesterday was very interesting and we saw many beautiful views. Particularly remarkable is the contrast with the yellow scorched Orient. Here, everything is green and fresh. Wherever land is not planted with grain or other crops, there are green meadows.+
Cherbourg, Saturday, Sept. 15, 1923
We have stayed here at the Hotel Atlantique for two days now and probably will be here another two weeks since the “Mauritania”, which the Cunard Line wants us to take, will not be leaving here until Sept. 29th. It is evening now and I will soon go to bed. We have good beds in a large room in the first storey. We have to get up at 6 am because the room, in which we sleep, is closed until noon. It is open again between noon and 2 pm, so that we can take an afternoon nap. Then the room is closed again until 5 pm. Breakfast is served at 7 am. Each person receives a cup of sweetened coffee and a piece of buttered bread. Lunch is served at 11 am. First a bouillon with croutons, then a roast and potatoes, then tea with biscuits or grapes. Supper is served at 5 pm and is about the same as the 11 am meal.
It has been raining yesterday and today so we have not been able to see anything. Wrote a letter to the Neufelds in America today. Our hotel is located only a few steps from the ocean. Particularly interesting is the ebb and tide. The water level rises and lowers 5 to 7 meters. At ebb time, the water's edge is about 1 km from shore. This evening, Peter Janzen and I took a walk. We first went to the city park. There were many roses and other beautiful flowers. There also was an artificial creek and pond on which a swan was swimming. Behind the park is a steep mountain with a castle on top. The castle was built in 1854. It had all the proper drawbridge and turrets. From above we had a good view of the city, the railroad station, the harbor and our hotel. On the side of the mountain is a beautiful brick path and steps with a railing leading down, which we used for our descent into the city. We saw two ships come into the harbor. One was the “Athenia”, which arrived from Liverpool and is leaving for Canada this evening. The other is the “Berengaria” (52,000 tons), which came from Southampton and also is leaving for New York. We are told to go to bed now. Good night!
Cherbourg, Thursday, Sept. 20, 1923
We have been here for a week now but I am not all bored. The nine additional days before our departure will be gone fast enough. It seems like time is passing very fast. Yesterday, it was a year when the Neufelds arrived in Russia and we earnestly started to think about our trip.
Not much is happening in Cherbourg. It rains and rains every day and one does not dare to go out in the street. However, there is much activity in the hotel. Passengers arrive and leave every day. Most of them are from Austria. Ships leave for America almost daily. The “Olympic” departed yesterday and the “Levithan” (formerly Vaterland, 60,000 tons), the largest steamer in the world, left yesterday. It belongs to the U.S. Line. The harbor is shallow, so that the large ships have to anchor way out. The ships usually come in toward evening and leave soon afterward. The passengers are transported to the ship in small harbor steamers. We usually sit inside when it rains. We have gone to the park and the castle several times when the weather was good. The countryside is very beautiful and there are many wild blackberries. We attended a Catholic church on Sunday. The singing was very good. During the worship service, money was collected. The clothes the people wear are very old fashioned. The women wear shawls and many still wear wooden shoes like the Dutch. The farmers have beautiful, large, strong horses and the wagons are correspondingly substantial, most of them with two wheels. Many small wagons are pulled by dogs. I wrote a letter to the Jacob Loewens today. I had written a letter to the Neufelds soon after we arrived here. I have a bad boil on the back of my neck that does not seem to heal.
Cherbourg, Sunday, Sept. 23, 1923
It has been raining all day today. It has also been rainy on previous days, so we had to remain inside. We again attended the Catholic church in the neighborhood this morning. In the afternoon, Dick and I went to visit Peter Janzen who lived in a different hotel. He ordered three cups of cocoa to be brought up to his room and we spent a comfortable time talking about previous experiences and plans for the future. After the rain stopped in the evening, we took a walk to the seashore. The wind was blowing and the tide was in with some waves. We walked along the breakwater all the way to the lighthouse and back. The moon shone off and on through the storm-tossed clouds. There also was lightning. It was quite cool. Real fall weather. Now I am in bed and it is warm and cozy. I am writing this lying down. That’s why the lines are so crooked. We now have to wait six days before our departure.
Cherbourg, Monday, Sept. 24, 1923
We finally had some sunny weather today. When we woke up this morning, we could see from the windows of our sleeping quarters that three large steamers had come in. One of them was the “Mauritania”, which had just arrived from America, and which we wanted to board in five days. Since the tide was in, the steamer with its four funnels appeared to be very large. There were two other big ships. One with two funnels and the other with one. We intended to go to the breakwater to observe them right after breakfast. However, when we had eaten our breakfast and seen the doctor, all these ships were far out to sea, so that we could only see the smoke from the smokestacks. Since a few loaded freighters had just arrived, I went to the harbor locks to see them enter the inner harbor. Since the surface of the sea had risen to the level of the inner harbor and the railroad bridge, the gates were opened and the bridge rotated on a swivel by electric power so that the ship could pass through. Immediately afterward, the bridge was turned back into position so that street cars, wagons, pedestrians, etc. could go across again.
Three ships entered the inner harbor in a short time. Some were Swedish and Norwegian freighters loaded with lumber. There also were Belgian and English ships. Most of the freighters are barges from the Seine river and harbor ferries to take the passengers to the large steamers, which have to anchor at the outer breakwater wall.
Then I went to wake up Peter Janzen and went with him to the offices of the Cunard Line. After that, we walked to the right, past the railroad station and out to the city, where we saw some very beautiful villas. The railroad station is located in a valley between two rocky mountains. The castle is located on the steep mountain to the east. The hill to the west is not quite as steep and is covered with beautiful villas. We crossed the railroad on an overhead bridge and returned to town because it was about noon. However, we stopped at the city park, which appeared especially beautiful in the bright sunshine. The roses and other flowers were green and colorful and the paths were covered with white gravel. I had a short afternoon nap and then went to the breakwater wall. It is now 3 pm and ebb time. Here on the wall, one can see how far the level of the sea has receded. It is at least five meters. There are five walls. West of the wall (mall?) where I am now is a large hydroplane hangar. I can see nine of them now. Several of them, which had been whirling around in the air, came in a little while ago. They are now being lifted out of the water one after another with a large crane and deposited in the hangar. To the left is the large Napoleon Plaza with a statue of Napoleon. Behind the plaza is the Trinity church with an old-fashioned weather vane. To the south lies the city with the harbor, bridger and railroad station and behind them the cliffs and the castle. To the east is a long breakwater with a lighthouse on the end. Many anglers sit on the breakwater fishing.
The breakwater mall (wall?) is very wide and the harbor railroad station is located on it. This morning, I saw a train full of passengers sitting there. These probably arrived on the “Mauretania”, which left for Liverpool to take on coal and passengers, and are going to Paris. Our hotel “Atlantique” lies farther back to the east. There are many passengers in the hotel, who probably will be leaving the day after tomorrow. I just saw a hydroplane take off. I was very near so that I could observe it very well. It had three motors and three propellers. The four men, who boarded it, first started one motor, then the second, and then the third. It did not have a boat under it but the whole body was shaped that way. There also were some air tanks attached to the underside of the wings.
Cherbourg, Thursday, Sept. 26, 1923
Our plans have again not worked. Last night after supper, an agent of the Cunard Line office told us that he had received a telegram from Liverpool stating that the “Mauritania” was overfilled, so that they would not be able to take us. We had no other choice except taking the “Saxonia” today or waiting for the “Serengaria” another ten days. We put a lot of pressure on them, went to their office and requested to see the telegram, etc. but were not able to change their minds. We went back again this morning and protested but they told us that it would be entirely impossible and that they would give us a refund for all expenses including the tickets, if we did not take the “Saxonia”. We could have waited until the next Saturday for the “Berengaria”, but there was the risk that it also would be fully sold out. We finally decided to take the “Saxonia” and the 150 francs refund, which is the difference of the cost of the ticket between the larger and smaller ship. This came to $9 dollars per ticket because a dollar was worth 16 francs.
7 pm on the “Alsatia”
We packed all of our baggage onto a truck this afternoon and after our supper left our hotel “Atlantique”, which had been our home for 21 days. The time here has passed very fast for me but I am afraid that we will get tired of the ship, because it is assumed that the ocean voyage may take 10 days. The ship line, however, has assured us that it will take only 7 days. After going through customs, we boarded the harbor steamer “Alsatia”, on which we are now sitting and waiting. The passengers of the “Homeria” of the W.St.L., which is leaving today, have already left the harbor. Our boat is sitting at the customs office near the turntable bridge. The weather is very good. I have bought many cards with views of Cherbourg today to remember it by. I also kept some French coins for keepsakes. We are all sad that we have to travel on the “Saxonia” because we had anticipated a short and enjoyable voyage on the “Mauritania”. But we are glad that we are on our way to America.
Saturday, Sept. 27, 1923 on the “Saxonia”
While we had been afraid that we would be dissatisfied with the Saxonia, we found that accommodations, the food and the service is very good and we are very happy about it. We had a wonderful evening last night. We gathered in the 2nd class reception room of the harbor steamer and sang many wonderful songs. Henry Dirks played the guitar. We remained at the customs station until 10:30 pm because the “Saxonia” was late arriving. Then we left Cherbourg and rode to the outer breakwater, where the “Saxonia” was anchored. The ride was wonderful. The city lights disappeared one by one, but the moonlight was full and bright. We boarded the “Saxonia” as soon as we arrived there. The courtesy and service were excellent. Unfortunately, not all of us were permitted to go. The widow Becker had to remain in Cherbourg because her boy Nikolai was in the hospital.
Abram Reimer had to stay, so that she would not be left alone. This would not have been necessary because the ship’s doctor would also not accept the Penner and Rogalaky families because the children had boils. Henry Dirks was almost kept back on account of his eyes.
As soon as we boarded the Saxonia, we were invited to previously set tables in the dining area and had coffee, meat and bread. We were assigned some cabins as soon as we had eaten. I was given a two-bed cabin with a Jewish boy. But I don’t know what happened to him because he did not show up and I slept in the cabin alone. Dick had a four-bed cabin with Emil Becker, which had a bench to sit on. However, here in the dining room, I can use the table to write on and the chairs are nice and comfortable. I slept excellently during the night. The beds are clean and soft. Each cabin also has washroom facilities and a mirror. The breakfast this morning was very good. We are all very satisfied.
Our ship left Cherbourg as soon as we had boarded at midnight. If the weather remains good, we should be in New York in one week. The ocean has large shallow swells, so that the ship sways quite a bit. But it is not bad here in the dining room. We are now on the open ocean and will probably not see any land for a week.
Friday, Sept. 28, 1923, on the Atlantic ocean
I did not feel well yesterday afternoon and this has now continued for 24 hours. I feel best when I lie in bed. The ocean waves are very high and the ship is rocking considerably. This morning as well as during the night there has been a heavy fog and the ship is blowing the whistle for warning signals at short intervals. The food we are getting is very good, but I have no appetite. There is a rumor that the voyage will take 13 days. If this is the case, we will get tired of the voyage. We would like to get to New York today, if possible. I feel terrible and will go back into the cabin and lie down.
Sunday, Sept. 30, 1923
This is the fourth day on the ocean. We have had bad weather until now. I have spent most of the time in my cabin and have felt sick. The wind died down a little this morning and the sun was shining, but now the storm is back again. Our ship traveled slowly through the fog. We covered 301 miles yesterday and 304 miles the day before. At this rate it will take seven more days to get to New York. The storm was so severe yesterday that water flowed across the deck and into portholes. The deck has been locked. It is difficult to keep track of the time, because the ship clock is being set back again and again. The “Mauratania” left Cherbourg yesterday and will probably overtake us in a few days.
Monday, Oct. 1, 1923
We finally had good weather yesterday and today. The ocean has quieted down and the sun has been shining all day. But the voyage is very monotonous. Always water and more water. This morning we overtook a small freighter. We can now see the horizon clearly behind us. We also met a small steamer but it disappeared right after we saw it. Since the weather has improved, we are now making 13 knots. Today, we traveled 328 nautical miles. The days seem to be very long, and this is no wonder, since we are traveling west into the sunset. Each day is about 24 hours and 35 minutes long. We have to set the clock back 30 to 35 minutes every day.
Thursday, Oct 4, 1923
The bad weather during the last three days hindered me from keeping up my diary. The storm was particularly severe yesterday and the day before that. I have never seen such waves. They were house high and the rocking of the Saxonia and my queasiness were correspondingly higher. The day before yesterday, I could not even look around because the waves were continually sweeping over the deck. The night before last, the “Mauratania” passed us at midnight. This afternoon, we entered the area that the sailors refer to as the “Devil’s Hole” and is assumed to be practically bottomless. We met about 15 small steamers, most of which were going north, probably to Newfoundland island. It is interesting how such small ships can make any progress in such rough seas. They bounced around terribly and waves repeatedly went over their decks. Some of them came so close that our ship would exchange signals with them. Another proof that we are close to land is the large number of seagulls. According to the map, we are now opposite the sandbank of Newfoundland. The weather is very good today. I am writing while sitting on the deck in the sunshine. The rocking of the boat has diminished. An exhausted small hawk landed on our mast for a rest. I certainly hope that the sea will be quiet when we arrive in New York. We are scheduled to arrive there in three days on Sunday. We have been on the ocean for a whole week now. It is much more monotonous than the seas on which we have traveled before. We are all very glad that we will soon reach our destination. If we were traveling on the “Mauratania”, we would be in New York tomorrow. Well, we will get there regardless after all.
In the afternoon, I had a nap in our cabin. I noticed that the engine of our ship had stopped. Soon Henry came in and told us that there was a wrecked ship on the ocean. When I reached the deck, we were very close to it. Our ship launched a rescue boat that went out to inspect the wreck. They found everything to be alright. The sailboat was intact and free from water but one could tell that it had been fighting the storm because both masts had been broken off or were chopped off and the sails were torn. After a one hour delay, we proceeded on our trip. No men or letters were found on the wreck and it is interesting what emergencies it had gone through yesterday.
Friday, Oct. 5, 1923
We have good weather again today and the ocean is calm. However, we made only 282 nautical miles. We have traveled faster than that even on the “Remo” on the Black Sea. We will be arriving in New York at 3 pm, the day after tomorrow. The “Mauratania” will already be there. I have spent a lot of time on deck today, but there is nothing to see except water. We also have not met any steamers because those leaving New York use a different route. Someone took photographs of the wreck and I am going to buy one. The captain says that in his 50 years of service he has never seen an abandoned ship in such good condition. I also bought some postcards of “Saxonia” and sent them to Europe, which the Cunard Line will mail for us. I just ate my dinner. It was very good and my appetite has returned. I am very glad I am well again.
Saturday, Oct. 6, 1923
We are having a very good voyage and have covered 326 miles between noon yesterday and noon today because the ocean is now wonderfully quiet. While the weather is good, it is quite cool. We wanted to see the engine room today but were not permitted to do so. It is seven stories high but we could not see much from the top. We met a few ships today. One was a small steamer with a lighthouse on it anchored on a sandbank and serving as a landmark and guide for passing ships. As I and several others observed the water from the back of the ship, we saw some water spouts squirting straight up into the air. We first did not know what caused it but we soon observed that they were made by whales, which off and on appeared on the surface and squirted water several meters high. We estimated that there were 20 to 30 of them. We were sorry that they did not come closer to the ship.
Now that the weather is good, I enjoy traveling again. Since we made good time in the last two days, we will probably arrive in New York at 5 am tomorrow morning. It is interesting that we will arrive in New York on October 7th, which is exactly six months after we arrived in Constantinople on April 7th. We will probably remain aboard until the day after tomorrow since tomorrow is Sunday. We have sent a telegram to Mr. O.O. Miller today asked him to meet us.
New York, Oct. 7, 1923, afternoon
When we woke up this morning our ship was passing through some straits with land on both sides and many lighthouses. At 7 am, we stopped at a quarantine station. After we passed quarantine, we proceeded at 10:00 am. Soon we were able to make out the skyscrapers of New York through the fog and to the right we could see the Brooklyn Bridge. Further on we passed very close to the Statue Of Liberty. At 11:00 am, we reached the docks of the Cunard Line and pulled in. The "Mauritania '' was sitting in the dock next to ours. We could see the back end really well and soon recognized all of our Mennonites that were left in Cherbourg. They arrived here two days ago and we did not understand why they had not yet disembarked. We probably also will have to wait until tomorrow and disembark after a medical examination at Ellis Island. There is no sign of Mr. O.O. Miller. We hope that he will come soon. Since today is Sunday, we had a devotion service at 7 o’clock this evening.
New York, Monday, Oct. 8, 1923, on the Saxonia
Yesterday we were told that we would go to Ellis Island today but that has not happened. The passengers from Mauritania were taken off this morning as well as the sick passengers from our ship. We will have to be satisfied to wait until tomorrow with no assurance that it will happen then. We are getting tired staying on the ship. In this manner, the Cunard Line will not make any profit on us, since they had to pay a ten dollar per ticket tax in Cherbourg and an eight dollar tax here. This also is the 6th week that they have to feed us. We are not losing anything but time but for us time is money. We are now sitting in the dining hall listening to music on a gramophone. There were many good songs, but we like the Russian ones the best. We can see practically nothing of the town because there are iron walls on both sides. Only from the back of the ship can we see busy traffic on the water. There also are many large barges, some of them carrying whole freight trains, cranes and other equipment. Some of the barges can carry a cargo of 400 tons, which are maneuvered around by small motor boats. There is no sign of Mr. O.O. Miller and Mr. Stoltzfus, but we are told that no one can board the ship. We will probably meet them at Ellis Island.
New York, on board the Saxonia, Tuesday, Oct. 9, 1923
On this journey, we often had to learn to be patient, but waiting became very difficult, particularly so near to our destination. We have been assured that we will be permitted to leave the ship not later than Thursday. Of course it is possible that it will be later.
It probably will be three or four days before I can start my trip to Reedley. I wanted to write to them and tell them that they could expect me to arrive there on about Oct. 20th, but decided not to do it and surprise them. It is very uncomfortable on the ship today. Many goods are being loaded and unloaded. The cranes and the freight produce so much smoke and dust that it is impossible to find a clean place on the deck or in the ship. I have been sitting on the rear portion of the ship all morning watching the activity on the water. The traffic is tremendous and reminds me of Constantinople where there also was quite a bit of activity in the harbor. The mail steamer Mauritania, which had been docked next to us, left this morning at 9 am. She is not much larger than the Saxonia but looks very beautiful and majestic with its four large funnels. It again carried many passengers. Two small power boats pushed her into the channel and turned it in the right direction. One and one half hours later, a large French steamer, “Rousillon”, departed. A Danish steamer also came in this morning.
New York, On board the Saxonia, Wednesday, Oct. 10, 1923
We have again spent another day on the ship. It is very uncomfortable because everything is covered with dust and soot from the loading of coal and other wares. One hardly knows where to go. There is also a lot of dust in the cabin. I have seen many ships come and go today. Three came in before noon. One was an American ship, “Finland”, and two of the W.St.L.. One of them being the “Majestic”, the second largest steamer in the world (56.5 tons). Only the “Leviathan” of the U.S.L. is larger and has a displacement of 60 tons. In comparison with the “Mauritania”, which departed yesterday, the “Majestic” with its three funnels, seems very large. There were also very many passengers on it. Four large steamers left this morning, among them the “France” of the French Line. It had four large funnels. There were also several large steamers arriving and departing this afternoon. It is a wonder where all the passengers come from. The immigration quota from Great Britain has been filled for the year so that 2000 passengers on the Mauritania had to return to England. There are also passengers on our ship who the Cunard Line has to take back to England. It must be a terrible disappointment for them. The service on our ship is getting worse. We did not get enough food for breakfast. We are all glad that we will be able to disembark at 7:15 am tomorrow.
New York, Thursday, Oct. 11, 1923
We left the Saxonia at 7 am. Our baggage was all inspected in a large room on the 2nd deck and then we were all loaded onto a small steamer and taken to Ellis Island. There were several steamers lined up and we had to wait until 10:00 am before we were permitted to get off. We first had to pass through a medical inspection and then go into a large room where we were registered. Since I did not have enough money to reach my destination, I was blocked off in a room where many people had been waiting for several days. At 1 pm, a man came in and called my name. He led me to a counter, where I received $50. A woman, who represented the interests of the Mennonites at Ellis Island loaned me another $50, bought my train ticket and took me to the ship where Dick and several others were waiting. Many, however, remained on Ellis Island. Our ship departed immediately. Dick had to get off at the second stop and I had to say goodbye to him. He will probably arrive at his destination this evening. I and several others are to get off at the fifth stop.
Everything went wonderfully well today. I can hardly realize it. We were on Ellis Island for only 3 hours. Mrs. N. was very helpful to us and I am very grateful. I hope that those remaining on Ellis Island also will soon be able to leave. At Ellis Island, we received a letter with a welcome to America.
It is now 7 pm and we are at the New York Central railroad station. We are sitting in the train, which is scheduled to leave in 90 minutes. Dick has probably arrived at his destination by now. I like the cars and the seats on this train very much. I am traveling with Peter Janzen and the Herman Dyck family. He is going to Nebraska and the others to Kansas. We will go as far as Chicago together. I have seen many many things today, but I have not been as interested as before and have not written down much. We really have not seen much of New York. It was foggy during the day and now it is dark. I have a long journey before me but should arrive at my destination next Wednesday. I am so glad that Dick has probably arrived at his destination by now.
Buffalo, Friday, Oct. 12, 1923
We have been riding on this train for 18 hours now and only have reached Buffalo, which is near Lake Erie and Niagara Falls. Many passengers had to transfer here, but we will stay in our railroad car all the way to Chicago, where we will arrive at 10 pm tomorrow night. In Chicago, we will have to be taken from one railroad station to another by bus. Too bad it will be evening and dark. We are still in New York state and I do not know whether we will go northward through Michigan or southward through Indiana. We thought that we were traveling on an express train but it seems very slow as compared to the French trains. Also, many trains have overtaken us. Since we cannot stretch out at night, the trip is very tiresome. After 6 days of travel, I will be getting very tired of it. We had heavy fog until noon today, so we could not see the landscape. Besides that, the windows are very dirty and cannot be opened. The railroad for a long distance runs along a canal system that connects New York with the Upper Lakes.
Chicago, Saturday, Oct. 13, 1923
We arrived in Chicago at 7 am. We have been traveling on the Michigan Central R.R. from Lake Erie. We went through Detroit at about midnight. When we arrived here, we were transported from the Michigan depot to the Union depot by bus so that we had a good view of the city. Here at the Union depot, we are in a special room for immigrants. Peter Janzen had to leave for New York at 10:45 am. Regier has caught up with us and is leaving for South Dakota at 5 pm/ The Herman Dycks family and I will leave here at 8 pm for Kansas City. This morning. Peter Janzen and I went to see Mr. Tschetter, the editor of “Warheittsfreuden”. Since the taxi driver got lost, we drove around for a whole hour and saw a great deal of Chicago. Unfortunately, it rained, so we could not take a walk. However, when we rode in the car we saw the elevated electric transit system, many bridges over the river, some are raised for the river ship traffic, the tunnel under the river, etc. There are also many skyscrapers and a great deal of traffic on the streets. Unfortunately we did not see the large swing. This evening, we are traveling much faster. Since the car was not full, we could stretch out and sleep. Mr. Tschetter thought that I could get to Reedley in 60 hours. We have been traveling 12 hours now and should be in Kansas City at six in the morning. At this rate, I will be in Reedley on Tuesday.
Kansas City, Sunday, Oct. 14, 1923, 9 am
I left Chicago yesterday at 6 pm and arrived here at 8 this morning. The train leaves from here at 10:40 am, which will be one hour from now. There Herman Dyks also left Chicago at 6 pm, but they were on another train and have not arrived here yet. We had a good ride because the cars were clean and not as dusty as the N.Y.C.R.R. I thought that it would not be as wet here, as around the lake region, but we have some dense fog and it looks as if there has been a heavy rain recently.
I sent two postcards to Russia from Chicago. Since the Tschetters had invited us, and we could not come, Mrs. Tschetter and H. Thiessen visited us at the railroad station in Chicago.
I have not been able to see anything of Kansas City. First, because I did not have any time and the second because it is so foggy and wet. Before I left Kansas City, I met Herman Dycks in the large waiting room. They left for Inman, Kansas at 10:30 am and should arrive there at 5 pm. I am traveling straight west through Topeka to Denver, where I have to transfer to another train early tomorrow morning. I still do not know whether I will go to Ogden from there to Santa Fe railroad.
Today, we have beautiful Sunday weather. It is so drier here west of Topeka. I can see much of the agriculture here, but it is difficult to describe it.
Denver, Monday, Oct. 15, 1923
After a 20 hour trip, I arrived here in Denver at 7:15 am. It is the capital of Colorado. I have to wait here until 1:30 pm. Denver is a big city and is said to be larger than Kansas City. To the west are high snow-capped mountains. It is also very cold. It must have snowed recently because there are patches of snow here and there. There is also some ice. Traveling through the country this morning I saw some large birds that I believe must be pheasants. Who knows when I will arrive? It probably will not be tomorrow because it is a long way to Los Angeles.
Cheyenne, Wyoming, 6 pm
We left Denver in a northerly direction. From here we are to go westward and should be in Salt Lake City early in the morning. From there we go south to Los Angeles. I wonder how long all of this will take. Certainly it will not be tomorrow when I arrive.
We traveled through flat country until we arrived in Denver. Here it is much more mountainous. There are many rocky slopes with pine trees scattered between them. Practically all the land is undeveloped. There must be a great deal of hunting. There were many hunters in Denver. There are also more and more Mexicans and cowboys.
Salt Lake City, Utah, Tuesday, Oct. 16, 1923
We arrived here at 8:30 am and I am back on the train on the way to Los Angeles. We left here at 8:55 am after a very short stop. The trip through Wyoming and Utah is very interesting. There are many snow covered mountains and many mountain streams. I also saw the great Salt Lake to the right when we were coming into Salt lake City this morning. Here as well as in Colorado many sugar beets were being harvested and loaded on freight cars.
Los Angeles, Wednesday, Oct. 17, 1923
We arrived here at 10:30 am. Well, now I am in the state of California with only an eight to eleven hour ride to Reedley. However, I probably will not arrive there until tomorrow even though it is only noon now. The train for Reedley does not leave until 11:30 this evening. There is another train leaving at 8:10 pm tonight but it does not go through Reedley so I would have to transfer in Fresno but I would get there three hours earlier.
I thought that the trip from New York would require a little less than six days, but now it turns out that it will take a whole week. The trip through the United States formerly would have been of great interest to me. But now I am so tired of traveling that I can only think about when I will be arriving at my destination. It is high time that I arrive soon or I will run out of space in my notebook.
The ride through Southern California this morning was very beautiful. Particularly interesting was the contrast between the state we just passed and California. I hardly saw a cultivated piece of land between Salt lake City and California. All appears to be a desert-like plain covered with brush and weeds. There also were some mountains, but the railroad track always runs through the flat valleys. It was quite different in California. I particularly liked the boulevards with palm trees on each side, the beautiful houses and gardens and the slick busy highways. I would like to take a walk through town but I do not know whether leaving my baggage is safe. Right after our arrival at the Union depot we were transported by bus to the Southern Pacific Depot. It is a very nice large railroad station.
On my trip from Salt Lake City to Los Angeles, I met a Russian man by the name of Alexander Lazareff who came from Germany about a month ago. He was a typical Russian and I had to let him treat me. When I objected he became angry.
7 pm in the evening.
I am getting very tired waiting. I am not leaving until 11L3 this evening so I have a 13 hour wait here. I am scheduled to arrive in Reedley at 10:33 am tomorrow.
Reedley, Friday, Oct. 19, 1923
Yesterday, I finally arrived at my destination, which I have been looking forward to for such a long time, and my journey has ended.
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